Have you been to THESE PLACES? Driving & Hiking Around CORNWALL (Part 1)

 Have you been to THESE PLACES?  Driving & Hiking Around CORNWALL (Part 1)

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I'm about to take you on a road trip  around Cornwall so sit back, relax and enjoy. The date is December the 2nd 2020. I'd just  finished work for four weeks and decided   the night before that I was going to head  to Cornwall and drive along the coast for   a few days. That few days turned into two weeks. I had no plan, no destination, no time scale and no   accommodation organized until the morning of the  adventure. The trip randomly started in Glastonbury.   Glastonbury was a kind of halfway house, it was  en route to Cornwall and I'd wanted to visit   there for a while so it made sense to stop there  for the night. I was in no rush. In the daytime I   visited Glastonbury Tor with a friend. This  was the main reason for me wanting to visit. 

The following morning I woke up to find out  the AirBnb I had booked the night before   had cancelled my booking so I rushed  back onto Airbnb and hit 'instant book'.   I wanted to start this trip on the most  eastern part of the south coast of Cornwall   and work my way around until I hit the  most eastern part of the north coast.   This would complete the coastline of Cornwall. My options on accommodation were pretty limited   as I wanted something that day but things  couldn't have worked out any better if I tried.  

This is what I love about solo trips with no  plan, there's always a surprise and it's usually   a good one. I'd randomly chosen to stay in a tiny  little village called Freathy. It's on the cliffy   coastline that is right on the Devon/Cornwall  border, but before heading there I took a visit   to two small twin villages just outside of Freathy  that I'd read about called Cawsand and Kingsand.  These villages are so close together you could  mistake them for one village with just a short   walk separating the two. They're the cutest  little fishing villages with lots of character. After walking around for a while I sat down in  the cold Cawsand Bay as the sun dropped and   the darkness began to fall. I noticed a load of  women gathering together with birthday hats on,   some of them covered with a towel. Long story short  they were all going for a swim and I'm not kidding   when I say it was freezing! I was there with my  winter jacket on, my hat on, my gloves on... and these  

women got in the water with no hesitation and  formed a circle in the chilly waters while talking   about their day. I sat there for 20 minutes or so  and they all treaded water happily. Crazy people!   From here I headed to my accommodation for the  next two nights. I met my lovely hosts, I threw my   bags down, I took a shower and then I went out  for some dinner to the only nearby restaurant   and walked back in darkness while admiring the  stars and the sound of the ocean waves down below.   The following morning iI woke up and felt really  content. I loved the room I had, it had a lovely   feel to it. It was a great place to relax in the  evenings and do some work on my laptop with no  

distractions. From what I'd seen of Freathy  already I'd loved and was looking forward   to exploring more of it. It's such a cute and  beautiful village on the cliffy Cornish coastline.   So with all of this being said I booked an  extra night here, so three nights in total.   I was in no rush to go anywhere, I had no  destination, no time scale, Cornwall was my oyster.

Walking in between all of the wooden chalets along   the coastline is an amazing  experience and very unique. While I was here in Freathy I did plenty of  coastal walks. I mean, it's impossible not to!   I got myself plenty of that fresh sea air and  took in the stunning views that were on offer. I also got to witness some great sunsets while   walking along the beach at  the bottom of the cliffs. You have to be careful here though, it was  quite easy to get caught out by the tide   as you can get trapped in by one of the small bays. This part of Cornwall is fairly unknown and  untouched. The locals call it 'The forgotten  

corner of Cornwall'. Generally tourists and  visitors drive right past here and head   further west to the more known locations such  as St Ives, Falmouth, Penzance and the like.   So here it's very much left to the locals a lot  of the year and this is what I love, finding random   little places with its own unique touch. To me  it felt like time had stopped, like things had   slowed down to a snail's pace. This is the beauty  of unplanned travel, there's always a surprise,  

and usually it's a good one. I was also traveling  in December which is always a quiet time in   Cornwall and the UK in general. If you're not too  bothered about having hot weather and don't mind   a bit of cold wind, clear days and a good chance  of some rain then it's a great time to visit.  

It's not much fun down here in the summer if  you don't like crowds. While I was here I got   to meet two lovely little dogs, Willow and Kiki. They were wild little ones and great company.   One thing I love about traveling and using  Airbnb, or just staying with locals in general,   is meeting their pets. But it's also one of the  hardest things too because leaving them is always  

hard no matter how short the stay is. I got the  privilege of walking them around the local area to   help my Airbnb hosts out while they were shopping.  Or should I say the dogs took me for a walk!   On my last evening here once again  I got my map out and chose at random   my next place to stay. I came across  a little small village called Lerryn,  which was slightly inland. It sat next to the river  Lerryn and had various walks on offer. Sold. That was me for the next two nights. But on the way  there I took a quick visit to Looe and Polperro.

Looe is slightly bigger than Polperro but they  are both fishing villages with lots of character.  And Polperro is very unique, it  has a real pirate feel to it. So much history here and that's very evident  as you walk around the quaint narrow streets.

It was darkness by the time I reached Lerryn  after driving down the narrow roads of Cornwall.  I got some dinner in the local pub in the  evening. When I got back to my accommodation   I'd found a book on local walks and picked one  out for the next day. It was walk number one, a  

two-hour walk along the south bank of the river  Lerryn that takes you through some woodland.   Then it was bedtime. After a spot of breakfast  and a coffee I set off on the walk. It was a   fresh crisp morning and the frost was  still on the ground. This was my first   glimpse of the village in the daytime and my my my, what a lovely surprise it was.   The river was beautiful and the cute little  bridge, well, it speaks for itself I think.

The walk was lovely, leaving the village  and following the south bank of the river until you cut into the woodland, but  always remaining next to the river. At one point the silence  was so quiet it was piercing,   until a few swans swam past and disturbed me. Once you leave the river the walk takes you back  up to Lerryn through some narrow country lanes.   A great loop walk if you ever visit  this area. After the walk I headed to the   nearby Polruan for lunch, a quaint little  fishing village with very narrow streets.   This guy got caught out and got himself  wedged between two walls in his work van.  

This is life in the county of Cornwall. After  some lunch and a pint I took a walk along the   coastline to a bay called Lantic Bay. I got  recommended it by the lady behind the bar so I   thought it'd be rude not to take a look and  generally most advice you get from locals   is worth taking. It took about 40 minutes  to get there but it was totally worth it. And the walk back to the village was  lovely too, perfect timing for sunset. That evening I went back to the only pub in Lerryn.   For dinner I tried the famous veg curry  and washed it down with a pint of Madri.  

I was done after that, the full day of walking  had got the better of me so I went back to   my accommodation and again, randomly chose the  next place I'd call home for the next two days,   and that place was to be Praa Sands. I booked  my Airbnb and hit the hay. Before heading to   Praa Sands I stopped off at a place that I'd  visited before on a previous trip here with family.   This place was called Helford. This trip was  mainly to visit places that I hadn't been to   before but there were a few little places that I  wanted to revisit and this was one of them. I just   remember the ford, here the river that flows over  the road. I found this very interesting as a child. While eating I got my map out and spotted a small  nearby beachy cove called Bosahan. That was the  

random destination I was headed after lunch.  That's one thing I like to do when I'm eating   lunch on an unplanned trip, I like to get the map  out and see if there's anything worth exploring   in the local area and you usually find something  or somewhere that turns out to be a little gem.  And this place was just that... I spent time here just sitting around  gathering thoughts and enjoying the total   isolation. Not one soul to be seen  or heard, tranquility at its best.  

On these kind of trips I generally arrive  in the evenings to my accommodation,  making the most of the days by visiting  random places such as the bay you've just seen.   And this time was no exception, I picked up  a frozen pizza from the shop along the way,   shoved that in the oven for dinner and got an  early night, ready for more walking in the morning.   It was a windy old morning but in all honesty  that was no exception either, I'm on the coast of   Cornwall, what should I expect. I took a 15 minute  walk from my accommodation to Praa Sands beach. I then continue to walk east along  the coast towards Rinsey Head.   Nearby here is the famous Wheal Prosper tin mine.  If you're a film buff you'll recognize this place.  

It was used in the old movie Poldark. I had no idea  this was here until I stumbled upon it and read on   the plaque that it was used in the film. Again, the  surprises that come along with a non-planned trip! A little bit further along the coast came Trewavas mines, more tin and copper mines here on the coast. Clearly this was a huge  area for mining back in the day. When I sat here and thought about what used to  go on it's crazy to think how bustling it must   have been with workers and miners. How things  change. I ended up walking all the way to Porthleven,   passing by a lovely little waterfall  along the way. Another little surprise. Porthleven is a lovely little village, it has a little marina which the village surrounds.

I got a bite to eat at the Harbour Inn. I went  for the sliced Cornish Yarg with chutney sandwich   Yarg is a semi-hard cow's milk cheese made here in  Cornwall. Before being left to mature the cheese   is wrapped in nettle leaves to form an edible  moldy rind and to be fair it was pretty tasty,   especially washed down with the pint of the local  Korev. With a happy stomach and a happy heart I   head back to my accommodation, dried the walking  boots off and did a bit of work online throughout   the evening. Well, these trips aren't all fun and  games you know. Today I had four places I wanted   to visit. The first place was only a 15 minute  drive west and goes by the name of Marazion.  

The town itself isn't that famous but  what's out at sea just off the coast is. And that goes by the name of ST Michael's Mount.   St Michael's Mount is a tidal island, it's a civil  parish where many people reside and it's linked   to the town of Marazion by a man-made causeway and  is only possible by foot at low tide. Failing this   there are boats that go over to the island but  not so many in the winter months. It has a chapel  

and a big old castle at the top. Unfortunately  the tide was in and the boats weren't running   at the time I was passing by so the drone was as  close as i could get to the island on this day. I continued west for 20 minutes and visited another  old haunt that I'd visited as a child. Mousehole, spelt Mousehole.

It's in the same bay as Marazion but on the opposite side. This quaint and very cute village was my  favorite place when I came here as a child   and I can see why. The streets very narrow,  the harbour very small, the place... very unique.   Another fishing settlement that would  have many stories to tell if it could speak. I grabbed a cup of tea and again continued slowly  west until I reached Porthcurno. Somewhere I  

hadn't yet visited. Porthcurno is home to many  things I'm sure but one of the most popular things   to visit here is Minack Theatre. It's an open air  theatre perched on the cliffs high above the ocean.   I was really hoping to get the drone out and get  some footage of the theatre as it's pretty hidden   and you can't really see it from the coastal path.  This is the best view I could get from the path.  

But unfortunately I couldn't  get my drone out for two reasons,   firstly it was windy as hell and secondly there  was a school play taking place in the theatre   while I was there so no drones allowed  without special permission unfortunately.   Here's a photo I've taken off google so you  can get a better perspective of the theatre. The second thing I'd say Porthcurno is famous for is the beach.   A cracking little bay with soft white sand  and turquoise water and a backdrop of cliffs. I trundled back to the car and headed  back to the last stop of the day.   And a stop that can't get  any further west if it tried...  

Lands End. The most western part of England.  This is somewhere I'd visited previously   and I remember on that day it was very wet, windy  and miserable. I thought today might be different   but it wasn't, it was exactly the same as  how I remembered it all those years back, wet, windy, miserable. Oh well you can't have it all  and you just have to make the most of the moment.   It was still great for filling up my  lungs with that fresh celtic sea air.  

Once again it was going dark as I got back  to my accommodation for the next two nights   the accommodation I booked was an old car garage  that had been converted into this cute little   self-contained unit. It was awesome. Very cozy.  The little touches were so well thought out. I headed straight out for dinner to the  local pub which was a 10 minute walk away.   On the way back I admired some of the  Christmas lights that brightened up the street. I'd randomly chosen a place called Connor Downs  which is just outside the more well-known   St Ives. This is the first place I would have  stayed on the north coast and it's the first   place we will begin the next episode of this  amazing unplanned and totally off-the-cuff road trip!

2021-01-13 18:22

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