Historic Access: Cuba Coast To Coast Special
A. Country. Nearly inaccessible to, Americans. Even. American, journalists for, more than five decades. Hello, South Florida I'm hot so velum and this, is cuba. During. The next two hours, we'll take you coast-to-coast. Where. Few television, cameras, have gone before I. Lick. What you it took us about two, miles to get through this wooded area this is what Santiago that Cuba looks like on a Monday, night just 90 miles south of Key West, but. Worlds, apart, local. Tan is the, one and only station, given access to the Communist, island. To. Bring you an inside, view of life. We. Went wherever, we wanted to go across, the island every, province from, north south east, and, west we. Explored Cuba and wanted to share those stories with you it's Cuba like you've never seen before. Our. Journey begins in. Havana. We've. Taken you to the capital, city several, times this, time we wanted to venture out to see the, rest of the island. We. Rent the van that would take us across the, country on a historic. Trip, we. Meet up with Philippe our Cuban, guide and the uncle of our producer, Michelle lakum or the opposable thumb, with. Critical planning in a limited amount of time we head out on our coast-to-coast, journey. Our special. Begins, in Guantanamo. You, may have heard the song. Well. This is the city the town that inspired, it like many Cuban, towns its central, square attracts, residents, day and night. And. Guantanamo. We didn't have to look for it frustration. Found us. These. Are the outskirts, of Guantanamo. My. Donor Street neighbors say. Here. You won't see pretty colonial, buildings. These. Women complain. About how, badly you floods here no, money and the town's budget, right now to fix it she says. Papa. Fill it up to you another, woman wants, us to see a sewer pipe with a broken cover the, neighbors had to wrestle bear as they say and cover, it with this old rusted, metal sheet, well. Maybe. It wasn't Sally when, it rains it's, like a river out here she says no. One can leave their homes. Meanwhile. Down, the street this man says he earns some cash fixing, shoes but. Today the workload wasn't, good just, two pairs. At, night, and Guantanamo Spain, drag where you find lots of stores you, will also find this man at first, you, think he's just taking a break but, get closer and you'll see why he's there he, sells bags plastic. Bags that you and I toss, out after going to the grocery store he, relies on to, make a few extra bucks. The. City of Guantanamo does, have tourist, attractions, but, typically it's overshadowed. By our US Naval Base. It's. A weekday afternoon and after driving for about 30 minutes we go up a steep road to, get to this lookout to see the, famous base but. You can barely see, it folks. Here in Guantanamo, say this is the only spot, where they can see our naval. Base a point of contention for both countries for many years for, you history buffs the history of the base goes back to the spanish-american war, the late 1800s. When Cuba belongs. To Spain the, war ends, Spain, gives the u.s. control. Of Cuba Cuba. Then, becomes independent, but, there's a catch the, Cubans, agreed to lease the Bay of Guantanamo territory. For, a little more than 3,300. Bucks now. The price is about four grand for, more than 50 years Fidel. Castro, has refused, to cash those checks the. Castro's, argue the territory, is illegally. Occupied that. The young Caribbean, nation then didn't. Have much leverage and felt, obligated to.
Lease The land. Rafael. Velazquez was, born in race in a tiny town near the base called Martinez. De las Fronteras, martyrs. From the border, hold, on no dilemma hoy there's, very little interaction he says between, Cubans, and Americans but. You cannot get too close some. Of the land he says has mines this, one got a little cool. It's Cuban, land he says with lots of parks and beaches lots, of pretty things on that side. He, hopes the land can eventually be, given back to Cuba. Back. In guantánamo central, square. We, see something we did not expect, to see it, catches, us off guard. With. A cell phone camera our producer, captures, this a man, carrying, a small homemade, sign screaming, Cuban, people wake, up he, goes on to say the, people are being lied to. And. Demands. The government, increased. Wages and drop prices at supermarkets. We, keep rolling when this happens, a. Park. Caretaker, hoses. Down the man telling. Him to get a job. People. In town told us he does this time and time again and each time he's, taken, away and jailed, before, being, released days, later this, is the reality in Guantanamo, a reality. That lonely, protester, eluded, to before he, was host down and taken. Away our. Next. Stop the province of Santiago. De Cuba. The, city of Santiago. Is. Known, for many things. The, birthplace of Rama. The. Birthplace, of trova, a world-renowned. Style of Cuban music this. Is what Santiago the kuba looks like on a Monday, night believe it or not this happens every, night Monday, through Friday. Dancing. And music is a way of life here in Santiago, really, in Cuba. Traditional. Cuban music and the dancing doesn't, stay too far behind. Santiago. Says they're called we're getting ready for Carnaval. At. Night, on, the streets. See. How they get ready three, months of practice, every. Night. Probably. The best time of the year for folks who live here says, Gabriele Lopez who, is the group's choreographer. Santos. Yo a mojito cult even though he deaf in the end of it's something that dates back to our ancestors. And we have cultivated and, defended. This tradition, says, so, Neil the Nelson, the mother of one of the dancers. Nato's. Llamo. Him familia. It's. A couple days of joy where we all participate. She says and surround. Ourselves with, family, it's, a time when other Santa, ghettoes natives. Of this province come, back home, no trophy home you, know the human, thing all right, it, go. On here these folks want to make sure their. Children hold, on to these roots what. They call their who won here you are mucho tiempo butter, which is argue for this, 20 year old dancer, named Leonard says it takes a lot of time and sacrifice. But, in the end it's, worth it. Practice. Ends. For the night. But. There's another side to Santiago's. History. It. Is the birthplace of the country's, revolution. It. Was here at the cuartel, moncada an army, barracks back then where, the Castros, launched, an attack in. 1953. The. First failed attempt, to topple dictator, Fulgencio, Batista. It. Was. In Santiago, six years later where, Fidel from this balcony declared, victory in, 1959. And told, his people he, was not personally, interested, in power, five. Decades, later the, kestrels, are still, in power and there, are reminders that, Santiago was, a crucial battleground, in Cuba's, modern history a. Stop. For every papal, visit since 1998. It, was from this Cathedral that Pope Francis greeted. And blessed the people of Santiago, during, his visit. Shut, to be the largest city in Cuba. Santiago. Is hilly. So. Hilly. The. Famous palliative Pico stairs are there not just for tourist, pictures but, really to help the people get, to the top of the hills truth. Is just, like revolution, Cubans, here or santiaguito, says, they're called remember. A more recent calamity. Walk. Around ask and, you quickly get stories, complete, with dates. October. 25th, 2012. Hurricane. Sandy makes, landfall in Santiago. Una, cosa esta, rosa from, a Sunday avocado, embrittlement. Mrs. Rosales, says it was disastrous, the town was, completely, devastated. Sandy, came overnight it, lasted, for hours debris, on every block light, post collapsed. Trees down. Sora. It felt like we had been attacked in a three-hour war, 11, people died they, remember a good amount of homes lost, the roofs. Three. Years later and residents. Say recovery. Has, been astonishing if it'll bring de ver como Santiago, broken grab you those, who visit are surprised to see how, fast we have recovered she says toda. Be a nosegay a mucho para sin pero. Tenemos que record hacer lo que el cambio sido muy bueno. Still. A long ways to go she says but, we have to recognize recovery. Has been positive, yet, another instance, at Santiago, is on, center stage of Cuban history likely. Not the last time for, the old port, town. Coming. Up a visit to the town in shrine of Cuba's patron, saint then to the province of Grandma and a look at the ways people use an old pastime, to make a few bucks and. Later. A story, all too familiar in the exile community a family, separated, for more than 45, years.
The. Town of El Cobre is on the way out of Santiago. The. Tiny town is surrounded by mountains and copper, mines which, is how it gets its name religious. Or not it's, a must-see part. Of Cuban history a destination. For the faithful. By. The side of the road. Immense. Selling knickknacks tells, us how to get there as, we get closer you see people selling flowers. At. These stands you can choose from all sizes and types of wooden, relics Our, Lady of Charity is probably. The most honored, and prayed, to religious. Icon, and. We. Have faith in the Virgin says no gliese Gonzalez, who, relies on that. Faith and on, the faithful to feed his family thousands. Come to this sanctuary. That's. The old me. This. Is how, I survive he says he's, been selling these small works of art since, 1995. People. Cannot have the real icon, at home they, take this instead and on her anniversary you, can pray to her Gonzales. Paste the government a fifteen, dollar license, fee to run the stand but he says they still have enough to, run their household, and make, more icons, these, guys are resourceful, when building these images, they use up old broken. Lightbulbs to save money in, the end it doesn't matter what, they're made of. What. Matters is that you end up here at this, shrine where inside, you, find la vivienda la, Caridad. In the, early 1600s, three, farmers, found the statue floating. On a small board in the waters of the bay of neap a story. Goes it had the sign that said I am the Virgin of charity, it was taken to the parish of El Cobre, but, kept disappearing and, would always be found on a slope. And encoded. Where the townspeople built. A small church and eventually. This basilica. It. Is here where Pope Francis celebrated, Mass. Those, who come Cubans. And foreigners alike come, with devotion this, woman carrying, her days old baby girl was, there to give thanks for the good delivery, but all men laughing, we, have so much faith in her she says because, she's our patron, our Savior. Ask, any cuban and you'll, get the same answers. The. Province, of Grandma is our, next stop as, we. Arrive the Sun is starting to set. By. Day the, early morning hustle, is easy to see. So. Much activity in the streets and it's not even 8:00 a.m. and while a good amount of people walk we notice instantly. Lots. Of them armed bicycles. So, it makes sense there, are spots where you can leave your bike for a minimal, feed the, sign outside says, parking. For bicycles. Amica, mallanna's takes care of them estimates, parking, about a hundred, bikes a day at this home, which. Is also by the way. Used. For a small cafeteria, where, they sell shakes in these, Corona, bottles, turned, glasses. It's, about 9:00 in the morning and you can see how many bikes he's already storing, he says he charges about one Cuban, peso per, bike. So. That's about a hundred pesos, a day four, hundred a month the, equivalent, of 16, US dollars. We. Go back to the park where, others make money a different, way. These. Are city workers, using, a well to get water they use for, the plants and trees around the park and that's where we find gotta, blow somebody sweat like. A. Lifelong, topographer. Who was born and raised in this town a town, he loves but, has been retired two years now gets, about, $12, a month yes. That's. How you live he says day, by day, and. At night at the central square if, they're not playing soccer. Kids, are riding bikes. This. Red bike with Cuban Flags on its side says I'm happy. In my country, man, behind these bikes is Manuel. Nogueira's, tamadra. Mimi Lara. He's been renting them for 11. Years. Yeah elephant our horse on a phony Cielo, solo he. Painted, well did another bike and the business started growing now, there, are eight if the bikes. Rarely, come in one piece some, broken, apart so, he puts them back together and, gives, them a special touch some. Of these russian-made, can. Be as old as the revolution. No, get us dust, as' every, day each, ride costs, a Cuban, peso so. Each month he ends up taking home about 80 dollars a month that's. A decent wage for Cubans most, of it he uses to, pay the bills the rest to, keep up with the wear and tear of the bikes. Jose. Mita brings, his one year old granddaughter Liana. To. Many limitations, because. Of the economic, situation here. In Cuba he says if, we Lea time all that, aside, we.
Want Better salaries, and better living conditions but. For now all he can do is enjoy. The tender moments, with, Liana. Joe. Thought no. Children coming, up the story of two sisters one, and ogiing the other in South Florida separated. By politics, for more than four decades so. Yeah and, our journey turns, personal, for our producer, who learns about her family, history then, we head into the province of gamma wave where we quickly fall into a tourist trap want. To see more head, over to local 10.com, and visit, our special section an interactive. Map will connect you to Cuba's, 15, provinces, full of extra, footage interviews, and slideshows, exclusively. On local, gen calm. When. You drive into Holguin you don't have to look far to realize sugar, cane is a major. Crop in this province. You'll. See it along the way. And. This. Province, surrounded, by mountains and. Fertile. Plains. But. As we leave the farm areas. And. Head into organ. The city. Things. Naturally. Change it's, called the city of parks. A. Total. Of 5 in the historical, center of town and people, use each one of them for all types of reasons in. The, morning mainly, to lay back and relax. It's. Before the daily, hustle starts, but, later in the day. Something. You'll see here, in America. For. 21 year old Jose Ave asada, skateboarding. Is about, adrenaline. But he quickly reminds, us boards, are hard to find the one he has was, a gift when. I was little Alejandro, qivana who lives back here in Miami brought back a skateboard, for his cousin. Across. The street upstairs, watching, it all these three young women we find out we're on a small break but, the break is over. Rochelle. Medina Gonzalez, is at the front of the line a teacher at the town's cultural center getting, these young folks ready, for Carnival. The annual street party. Every. Day there here she says practicing. All the time, because, they want to win or. Gain one of the biggest cities in Cuba, was most recently in the spotlight, get Sam Ortega, though the Pope was at the loma de la cruz where he blessed the city. From. The streets of alguien you can see the iconic, spot up on the hill people, often, climb the 400-plus. Steps to, get to the top, much. Like the legend says a friar, did with a cross on his back when. You get to the top you can see candles, and flowers signs. Of promises, left behind by, those who came up. Looking. For help from above. It. Is in the province of a game where Felipe, our guide and. Michelle's uncle grew, up it was Michelle's, dream to see where, her mother lived as a child. In, this popular, Cuban song we, get directions to marken a the, Lepus childhood, home. Maria. Is Philebus, mother's, name. Go. Inside the, house like, Filipe it describe he's tiny. He. Shows us a spot where his mother would, tie him to the wall so, we wouldn't take off maybe, I'd been piranha I would leave the house early in the day and wouldn't, return till 9:00, or 10:00 at night yes, all I said that I know, kadala therefore I'm only a woman. Olympic. Breaks, down tells, me he was good to his mother. Boy. All. The money I made I would give to her he says he. Was about 9 or 10 years old at that point, in. The kitchen Philippe it reminds us they lived here more than a decade. On. The other point I shall. Asked if this is the home where they lived when, her mother left Cuba in 1957. Liebe. Says yes. Earlier. In our trip we stopped in Palma, Soriano where, Philippe, and his siblings would, spend months as children. Go. Look. Lowen, SUV Felipe. It's looking for house number 251. Not. Alone they're the two men go back and forth kiddo, get better like that. Filipa. Thinks this is the house he would visit as a child, day. Our. Producer, Michelle also looking for her father's childhood, home calls, her dad in Miami. Quickly. We realized the, man who was simply helping us find the house knew, Michelle's, father and, grandparents. So yeah I'm, Freddy's daughter she tells him we, hit the jackpot. Back. In Marconi at Felipe's. Childhood, home he recalls this, is the room where his siblings, were born a total. Of nine children a rough. Childhood deep, in poverty, but, his loving parents made, it all bearable. In, Holguin we, have another mission of a personal, nature. In. A, town 23. Miles northeast, of the province capital, called. Raphael, Friday. This. Is the, house. Inside. We get a tour then, visit with Rina Guerrero, Pena. She. Tells me she has never met, William, in person. William, is William, Thomas our, chief photographer here. At local 10 his, mother is the Rinas only, surviving, sister, William. Asked us to visit the family, he has never met. He. Wanted us to see his mom's childhood, home where. She played where. She grew up wanted. To see his relatives especially his. Grandmother, a hundred, year old your, Hina Pina or Cho when.
We Visited her frail body was bedridden. She no longer talked, barely. Ate. William. Wanted us to take with us a video, message whoa la familia. It's. Like they're here, she tells us no no. Yeah. Even though I don't know them personally I love, them she says and every, night I pray for them. It's. Hard to explain she says the, pain associated. With, 45. Years of separation. It's very emotional because it's. Like this, family. That I know but, I don't know. Yomi, Ramana I really miss my sister, and I've always wished she could come visit she, says me Tanya refuses. To go back to Cuba even, to see her mother. Damien. They. Don't know Bonilla and I just couldn't even though, it hurts my soul I couldn't. She says II Danya, her husband, Roberto, and their firstborn Williams. Older brother left, Cuba in 1970. Joe. Thought no. Change or our. Daughter. Noche. II mean she remembers crying, every, night her, husband Williams, father was, a political prisoner no. Calahonda. Naju, Iranian. Has never abandoned. Her Cuban family, Wow most, recently, sending, medicine, and food, for her mother. The day after leaving all ye. We. Run into a monster. Storm followed. By lightning, that strikes just, a few feet ahead of us followed. By this double, rainbow then. A call that, William's grandmother, had, died the day after our visit. Maybe, important. A a, better assist even, for. A family, so united and so loving it Anya says not seeing each other for 45. Years has, been rough and, Anya did get to see the images of her dying mother we, brought back as. Heartbreaking, as that is one. Thing is certain. Rena, says they, will never lose hope that, one day they, will see each other again. Up. Next. Pitching. The right in Las Tunas like any place on the island can. Be challenging, today 10 and 3 needed meet, a retiree, who scrapes by on her pension, plus a stop, in Benny's, town the city of san diego's when we return. We're. On the road again headed. To our next stop. The. Province, of Las Tunas. Where, life is slow. Just. Ask this man a hat maker who sells his goods by the side of the highway in. A tiny town called El Yunque, some, 18 miles from the province capital and the young affair de, Mendo is his name this, 35, year old says his father and grandfather made. Hats it's, a tradition, here today. That bertha dorset first, you carefully, knit the straps then you sew it all up takes, about half an hour to make it's, enough to get by whatever way you look at it you have to, get by. We. Drive into town Sun is out, but menacing, clouds await. Our arrival, we see. Some people walking. The streets others. Sitting, on benches thinking, and maybe, even watching, those storm clouds roll, in. But, this changes. Everything. We. Along, with the folks at the park take refuge. Some. Barely take cover. So. When the rain moves on. Las. Tunas, becomes, a ghost town and, we. Move on. On. Our way out we pass this yellow truck and realize. People, are inside. You'll. Find them throughout the island. Just. One way Cubans get around most, of them have been altered so passengers, can get on and off and every, town you'll find this a transportation, hub Academy, now is what they call it here, you'll see different options for folks trying to get around. Horse-drawn. Carriages, are still an option a good, number of people ride their bikes the, state does, run official, bus lines. Then, there, are people's cars. This driver reminds, us it's a privately, run business, both Eddowes as they're called he, and his colleagues don't, want to say much more but, they're there to make money and. So. Are these guys trying, to sell snacks or drinks to, passengers, who are getting ready to leave.
Or. Those just arriving. You. Can see Cubans, have to be resourceful every, day and how they get around. We. Head to the province of Gama way where right away as we get into town we, run into a bit of a challenge. Out. Of all the tells me visited Kem away seems to be one of the toughest to get around even when we asked residents, they struggle, to give us directions. That's. Unless you're, this guy red, shirt shorts. On his bike who minutes earlier approached our van and offered. To get us to our destination, feeling. Lost, we agreed hoping, he would take us to the place we're staying we drove and drove. We. Finally, get, there. He. Introduces, us to this guy who is supposed to be our contact. He. Even identifies. Himself as, all the glory, of the men were looking for our producer, Michelle quickly discovers, this is all a setup and this is not the man we're looking for, but someone, posing as him to, get the business. So. Yes we call Giro, going, he, explains this is his job he, guides tourists, into town whether, it's a hotel or a restaurant. Likely. He had an agreement with, the owner of, this home, but. All alone no mikata, el diario a job, he says it's legal and helps, you make ends meet on a daily basis. He explains how it works he waits for cars he knows are carrying, tourists, December, the bomb with, all due cope we need a bomb, they always tip you he says they always pay, you twenty. To twenty-five dollars a month is the average he says he makes doing this Bravo. What all in 20 single a pair, of pants, cost the same he says reminding. Us it's not enough but, it's enough to buy food. The. Next morning we head into town. Aside. From its clay jars and busy, boulevards Tom, away is known for its churches, we counted, seven in the center of town. They're, everywhere, and we were lucky to be there on a Sunday father. Jose growl welcomed. Us to Mass at his church by Glacia, de la soledad where, he's been a priest 14, years. When. The city was founded the, churches, were concentrated. All within a third, of a mile gamma way is truly. An example of the ROA Catholicism. Has played and continues to, play on the island, patron, Anthony see, it took a more demanding. Faith that. For. Many years he says people, here in Cuba feared, showing, their religious, faith but, that fear no, longer exists, no. Way you can talk about religious, changes on the island without talking, about the three papal, visits in 17. Years. Pope. John paul ii, in 1998. Pope. Benedict xvi in, 2012. And. Earlier this year that of, pope francis these. Three papal visits are inviting, cubans to something, they have to build words, from a man who has been a Catholic priest, 45. Years he, thinks of the circumstances. And experiences, surrounding, him at the, time when he became a priest early. 1960s. The peak of the revolution, when the church became a target, of the Castro's. Never. Thought he, would see this day. Next. Up see, a cool day Avila, a, primarily. Agricultural, province. We're, cattle roamed the ranches, and crops, crowd the landscape, they, say it's some of the most fertile land in Cuba. It's. Our halfway point on our journey. In. The town square, oh yeah. The. Faces, are young. The, music, playing a tonne of course draws, us to this nondescript corner. There's. A line so you wonder what people are buying the, gondola, mason bees, made Elise, Gilbert, shows us his, universal, charger it's. One of his many tools and a profession, sparked, by, the cell phone. Here, he's welding an antenna more than in the world he, bet says they learned little by little six years later and he's still doing it at la clínica de el celular a cell phone clinic they can bring your phone back to life when business is good the bet takes home two, hundred to three hundred dollars, a month he shows us how he's stringing along wires so, thin you, can barely see them on camera a little cooler on me it's microscopic, you, says what's. Not microscopic, are, the prices, there's. Always a line and yet another, happy, and satisfied customer. Next. The, historic, town of Lena Dodd and the, big business, of Casa particular des then, a retiree, shows us how she struggles, to live day by day and seller had a stop, in Benny's town the city of C Vegas.
The, Subside Trinidad, the province of Santa spiritus. There's, a fishing village. It's. Called kasi. Umberto. Areola gets ready to take off to see the next day, he's. Been fishing for more than 20 years now, he's 41, years old. From. The time I was a kid he says. We. Were there as he unloaded, his equipment, the tools he takes with him really, the stuff that allows him to fish but, also keeps him alive out, there the, boats you see here most of them are about 12 feet long usually, it's a about 3 to 4 men per boat and they spend several, days out, in the Sun fishing. It's. Enough to feed our families, to live and to maintain the boat for. The Himba 7cm. You always have to figure out how, to make, that money he, shows us his boat wants, us to see how pretty it is and tells, us thinks we're not too bad is it get on. You. Get tired he says but, to live you have to keep working one, man will he Menace is the son of a fisherman and followed in his, father's footsteps do, it the way they will so what I'm telling, you. He men have spent 10 years working for the state-run fisheries, as a diver, mainly. Catching, lobster, now, retired, because of health reasons but he's still fishing it's what they call sports, fishing but, what they catch they, sell seasonal. And amaya though we, sell it to the state he says another, way another, example. How the Castro, government has, loosened, its rules when it comes to private business financially. It's enough to support your family you, won't get rich he says but, it helps out, on the ground I'm, like a bunker, it's. What Cubans call ESCA pondo meaning they don't make much but, they're surviving, despite, the challenges, it's, a story of Cubans, he says were humble, and poor. From. Castle des we head into neighboring, Trinidad. Streets. In Trinidad are pretty, bad in some areas. When. The Sun comes up you. Start to see the town soul. Breakfast. Is early for us we've taken some fruit some press ham and cheese sandwiches. And we, finished with some scrambled eggs, and. You cannot, forget. And cafecito, a typical. Daily breakfast, like this is what, you're served when you stay at a Casa particular a. Private, home it's, how we found lodging, throughout, our trip this, time we stayed in his sous Columbus, house up, the street from the center of town although. We got your heart off we gotta make us a billion from dancing out but cool I get out by the. Location. Of his home and the opening, from the Castro, government when, it comes to the private business, is what, got his shoes involved. It, was two years ago he started renting out an upstairs, room out of his colonial, centuries-old home it's about 30, to 40 dollars a night for, a couple extra bucks you can get breakfast, and lunch. Tourism. Is thriving here in three nida all you have to do is look at these signs that tells you a room, is for rent just on this block we found eight homes. That's. Just one block the signs are everywhere and, so, are the tourists. Cameras. Are as varied as the colors on the walls our hope was to keep chatting with Cubans who, are directly, affected by, the tourism boom. Turn. The corner and you'll find another type of business, un, Syrah meatus and other women sell, handcrafted. Jewelry made, of plants, and seashells, these, women pay the state unlicensed.
Feet Which is about $60. A month she. Also has to spend money buying, some of the goods you. Make enough to sustain daily, lives. 8. A.m. to 6 p.m. is a typical, day for her no good I'm gonna send on my own I don't have any guess I know we, don't want to be millionaires, she says they, just want to live a decent life. Back. Out on the cobblestone, streets of three need add. Their. Loud calls don't, really bother this street dog as they, go by Nana. Box, watches. By her door they mock told we. Have everything she says after listing, all the, hot spots and three that a. Cobblestone. Streets, were built many years ago one, of the many attractions that, drives tourists, to, this 500, year old town naina. Does, not live far from the center a. 75. Year old lowers, the volume on the radio keeps. Walking so we can chat and she can show us what, she calls home. This. Is as far as my home ghost she says behind. Her living room behind, half, a wall you'll, find her bedroom her, bathroom, is in there Nana, is retired. She gets around 240. Cuban, pesos, monthly that's. Around, $10. With. That she pays electricity. Water and saves, the rest for food it's, not enough, though. Hey. This. Is where she cooks the kitchen, it's next to a little refrigerator right next to her bed she. Uses a wooden rod to, hang the few clothes she has. Shows. Us inside her refrigerator that, doesn't have much just, a mango, a loaf of bread and some frozen water in. Order to survive she has a side job she, cleans houses and, runs errands for people we. A. Devout. Catholic who, is proud to show us images. Of her faith her favorite, image of course. Our. Lady, of Charity patron. Saint of Cuba it's who she holds dearly in her, home's corner, she also points, to the saints from, the Santeria religion Nana. Doesn't, have any family left here in Cuba, her only brother seen in this picture died. Before. We go she says. Here. You have a friend then, the story takes a turn as we, leave we, get some last minute video, a younger. Guy who lives down the street screams, at her tells, her to be careful, after what she told us. She. Says to him I've only said good things a reminder. To us people. Here are, still concerned about what they say. Coming. Up a, longtime. Business part, that of necessity. Dalila then a closer look at the importance, of remittances, for Cubans by, liquid. June and stay tuned as we visit the historic, shores of, Maine pigs. Across. This colonial bridge to get to Santee, Spiritist, the capital, of the, province with, the same name. It's. Early morning. Things. Start to get going in the town's main square which. Is a meeting point for some of its residents it's, a time of day where, the sun's rays are still not oppressive. Probably. A good time to get a haircut. Who. Better than undress, Valdez who's been cutting hair for almost 30, years, this is family-run, his brother and nephew worked, there so, did his father Oh Murdock ba ba ba ba ba, he shows us the chair he used right. Next to his not. Much has changed in, three decades, except. Always, some acquainted with her, self-employed, he says, it. Can charge what they want or what the customer, is willing to pay a free-market concept, we take for granted here, in America, they're, just starting to use really. Say when, guar offers a coma-like we. Cubans say we can put food on the table. This. Is a way of life for Carlos. Suarez who's, been doing this 30, of his 49, years at the doorway of the barbershop. Fixing. And refilling, you sliders, is how he survives, he, shows us how it's done. Takes. Out the air pressure. Then. Refills, it. And. It's done he, charges two to three Cuban pesos, depending, on the problem.
Carlos. Never imagined, he'd be fixing, lighters this long but, he's thankful because the, $4 a day he makes is what, helped him raise his kids. We. Leave the center of town. Head. For what seems like the outskirts. Looking. For the home of sati, Cabrera, she, sees her van and knows it's us. Data. Invites, us inside her home the. Last six months have been tough for her she's getting ready to go back to work after being, unemployed, for six months. Policy. Entonces en Tony scenario, she tells us in Cuba. Being, unemployed. Means, you, get 60 percent of your salary for, her that's a hundred and ninety pesos, a month which. Is almost eight dollars available. She. Shows us her backyard. Which. She says she, uses to raise chickens yes well. He but anyway with the eggs they lay help. Supplement the, egg she gets from the ration food the, state hands out Cabrera. Lives here with her 13, year old daughter in, this modest two-bedroom. Home if, they like Athena, she shows us her kitchen, I did all gain, ago we. Have access to everything here she says but, the prices are too high given. What we make for a living, Cabrera, also, relies on help, from abroad, especially. South Florida, which is where her sister Maria. Valdivia, Cabrera, lives. I mean. It okay I'm important, she sends me money whenever, she can she says. Maria. Has been in the States almost 22. Years, economica, maintained a $11. Gorilla Mongo financially. She relies on me she says she. Sends medicine, clothing shoes hello. My important, element, as you know but food is a top, priority the, challenge, then becomes finding. The food so no black American, a drink oh they. Are impressive she, reminds, us Cubans cannot buy red meat it's illegal you can go to jail unless you're a tourist, you know. Without. Her help not sure what I would do, shadi, says it's too hard Debbie any yeah I don't know you don't want you my Pharaoh, yeah. I found the map they probably look she wishes she would help some more but, does what she can. It's. A similar, story a similar. Experience, for, many Cubans, here, in South Florida. When. We come back a. Stop. In the town, Benny mother helped, make famous we. Go in search finally, find the, structure that oppa critical sites in u.s. Cuba history, and later. The, ever-growing tourist, boom Cuba's, most famous. Beach when, Cuba coast to coast returns. The. Cienfuegos is forever, honored, in this many more days on. Scene, Fuego says the city i love the most, says the lake cuban master in this, tribute, to this town, the. City remembers. Him just, as fondly one, of the biggest attractions is. Morez statue. Those. Who visit cannot, get enough, Cienfuegos. Is known as the pearl of the south known for its pretty colonial, buildings, a. Town. Founded, by the spanish, in the early 1800s. And, settled. By the French. Take. Paseo in Bravo and you'll see them lined up along the way. The. Palacio, de via is one of the architectural. Jewels here, from, here you can walk to Punta Gorda a getaway, for Cubans we're, looking for a little rest and relaxation. They. Use cienfuegos Bay for relief. But. The heat doesn't, stop these guys. BC. Taxis, as they're called are always on the move a given time what old people do the time here we take all types of tourists, on a ride says Eddie, Gonzalez. Who, has been peddling, 19. Years, interesting. Yes this, group is from Belgium our 2004, my CRM, Pokemon, garita we're, seeing a bit more tourists typically, from Italy, France Spain.
Now. Americans. Who tipped well he says. Mapleton. Como. Se Miroku a noisy area. There. Is a Cuban saying he says singer, I got the odd meaning, they never hang out with what we charge and usually, give you a little more as, far as here is Cuba relations he. Says it's about time you. Know what. That's. About you're, already seeing, the results, says Felix, who, is younger than Eddie during. High season he says they, earn between five, and ten dollars a day yes, if we see it but I love you. Enough. To live he says to, survive. Back. In parque central the, main square you'll find tourists, from different countries we, were lucky because we found some Americans. They, all agree in hope the changes will help the Cuban people, this, group is from Denver some of them are teachers, you. Know we can lift the embargo and, we can start. Hopefully having, better. Ties my, hope is that, they. Are able to express themselves, in, the. Way the, best way that they feel and. That. They determine, that as opposed, to the government determining. How they speak more access. For the people to information and things like the internet, they. Think that will lead to more exchange, of information so, people from, both countries can get to know each other and Cubans. Can maybe demand, more of their, governments. Boxing. Is huge, here. The boys start training, young a lobby. At. Jose. Alamo has been training boxers, for 20 years. He's. Trained hundreds, of young boxing, talent, in, Doha International internationally. A. Olimpica. When, we compete nationally and, internationally. He says boxing. Is what brings home the medals he goes on to list all the championships. Cuba, has won despite, what he says is the lack of training, materials, no demo logo gonna want a no team college they don't anymore Lolo, Cahill male you we don't have gloves or other things needed for proper training. Once. A preliminary 1000. Present amo no. No Randy yes, sir Aguila, what are the well-known boxers. Here says even. With the lack of training, materials, we, continue, to do well at tournaments. And. With, better relations, with the US their, trainer says some, way about dealers oh no mijo to heaven - we, won't be beat, we'll be the best in the world. Here. In Cienfuegos at the Jose Marti Plaza you feel the pride of the people but, you walk a couple blocks down the street and you see the struggle. Beyond. The touristy, spots you'll find Cubans, trying to make a living. We, found you a Lopez, at a street corner he's, what you call a, boat dado basically. A cab driver who uses his own car when, we asked him how the cabbie, business is going being, a mile, good, and bad he says, we.
Need More tourism, he, does admit he, has seen a spike in tourists, coming to CF way goes more, and more he's, seeing Americans. They. Give you tips he says it walks us over to show us his breadwinner. A bright. Orange, old 80's Russian car he bought three years ago and when, asked what he likes about the car ganda. It. Runs he says and. As soon as he's done showing off his car he gets back to that corner back, to work to make enough to put food on the table we, asked him one last question the, improving us-cuba. Relations. It's. For the better he says things, have, to get better. The. Province, of vehicle on which some still remember, as las viejas. It's. Where you'll find the, city of Santa Clara. Like. Other Cuban cities it has a colonial, style with a central, square. Except. This town is very deep. And revolutionary. History. Philippe. It takes us to a major tourist attraction preferred. By those who sympathize, with the revolution, it's, a monument a memorial, a museum. Cubans. Know it as a ring, bling doddle, story. Goes at mid, Revolution, and fighting, dictator, Fulgencio Batista sent. An armored train carrying. Soldiers and weapons. On. December, 29th, 1958. Guerrillas. Led by revolutionary. Ernesto. Che Guevara attacked. And derailed, the Train fighting. Followed but the rebels captured Batista's. Soldiers che. Despised. Here in South Florida by, Cuban exiles is a hero, to those who believed in the revolution his. Tomb also. In Santa Clara is, a major attraction, but. We wanted to see a hidden, attraction. So. We leave town and head north. We're. Told we can find it in a town called Sawalha, grande in the outskirts of a tiny place called Mariana, Gras Hollis. After. Asking around we, get to this dirt road but. Our van cannot, keep going. We. Meet this farmer who knows exactly what, we're looking for and says he'll take us there our, photojournalist. Mario alonso and i follow him. He. Says people, always come here looking, for the site we. Keep walking on a dirt, and rocky road nothing. In sight but fields. Our. Guide says the entrance is this way so. We keep following. Everyone. Around here calls it, the Russian warehouse we, walk through more brush more, overgrown, vegetation a, couple, steps more, sea, and we, are there it, took us about two, miles to get through this wooded area finally.
Find The structure that locals, say belongs, to the original, site where, the missiles were placed. This. Looks like a bunker, or a storage facility part. Of a bigger complex, part, of a bigger story, of when, two superpowers clashed. In. October. Of 1962. President Kennedy, tells, the world Russia, is installing, missiles, in Cuba. Thirteen. Days of terror followed, what became known as the, Cuban Missile Crisis, our, spy planes took, photos like this one that show in this, place Sawalha. Grande a launch, site was built. This. Is likely, the warhead, storage, bunker, most, of the structures in this wooded area are falling, apart but if you walk around you, can find some bricks some of them still even have letters on them the, farmer shows us a cement, stand you can see broken bricks on top of it you get closer you can see red letters but, cannot make out what, they once said inside. We, find a colony, of bats in a beehive but, if again part, of the past now. Close, to 60 years old. Coming. Up now I lick. What you a stop at the heart of the Bay of Pigs invasion was, in these very same waters, will visit the port of Mariel where, thousands, of Cubans fled in a massive Exodus later. How hustling, is part, of life in one town of banana, tree, want to see more head, over to local 10.com, and visit, our special section, an interactive. Map will connect you to Cuba's, 15, provinces, full of extra, footage interviews, and, slideshows, exclusively. On local, jam calm. Our. Cuba coast-to-coast journey, continues. We're. Making our way out of the province of vehicle, ara on. The highway we notice workers sweeping back and forth what, looks like some type of grain, we found a couple of these gentlemen here on the road drying. Rice, they say they first tried using, the heat of the Sun these. Guys we're not afraid to share the road with fast-moving, cars trucks, and. Horse-drawn. Carriages, darling, Adam we do this every morning very little water not, much to eat says this man who, told us his name was Osmani. When. There's work he gets paid about $2, a day, up. The road a different, group these guys pack, up the rice and bagging the, rice then, gets peeled and eventually, sold. We.
Continue, On to matanza. When, you drive into the city there's a possibility, you'll, drive over a bridge. And. That's. Why they call it the city of bridges about. 17, bridges and a, small city with, a big history. It's. Called the Athens of, Cuba, because, of the role it played in the country's cultural, development, especially when. It comes to afro-cuban, culture it's, a neighborhood where, Santeria, still, thrives. And. El Barrio Simson is the, heart. After. Searching. We. Finally, found a home where, a man practices. The religion, as they call it he, tells us to explain, the religion, we'll have to stay for days so. He doesn't go on camera but, explains, it's, a religion, that goes back to West African, slaves they. Brought the spiritual, traditions, with them and have, kept them arguably. Catholicism. In Santeria go. Hand in hand the, Santeria, experience. Doesn't have Christian content, but it does use Christian symbols and, has to do with the times when when slaves were brought over from, from Africa and were baptized, but, really weren't evangelized, the, Christian saints Cubans adore all, have, different, Santeria, names. But, this province, is known for more than its centennial roots. The. Music may not give it away. From. The time you arrived you'll, notice the traffic, people, mostly. In bathing suits walking the streets with one destination. In mind. This. Scenery shows, you why Varadero, is one, of Cuba's hottest. Destinations. White. Sands turquoise. Sea about, 13, miles of uninterrupted. Beach, this. Sea of people are mostly Cuban when, we were there it was low season. We. Stopped at this artisan, faire you'll find anything, Cuban, whether, it's political, or scenic our fathers Cuban so we've been here many. Times over the years Suzanne, Grasso, was there with her mother and mom. And daughter both Americans, have, seen changes, over the years in Cuba they're, hopeful, but because of history decades. Of little change a past, that still drags on, she says her Cuban relatives, are skeptical.
Of The changes. Comment. From one of the family members here I said oh maybe in two years, things. Will be different, I'm looking forward to seeing that and his answer was two years, twenty, years we'll. See. For. Denny's barceló better relations, means more, tourists, and more money in his pocket, a couple, tenths down we, find godless, Kapadia who also sells, trinkets, for tourists I'm, here wearing a burger get on it whomever, wants to come he says should, come it's, obvious, the economy, in this country is in, need of some cash infusion. He says that'll improve living conditions for, Cubans and the country. Can prosper, American. Tourism he says contributes. The most to the world Cambodia. Is one, of the most outspoken, folks, we meet so far he, did not hold back was, not afraid to criticize the, longtime, political relationship. Between the u.s. and Cuba. He. Wonders if the Castro, critics ever thought, the embargo, would affect those in power the, embargo, he says only hurts, the Cuban people. It's. Definitely, not hurting, Varadero. Drive. A couple miles north and you, cannot, miss the cranes get, up closer and you'll, see the construction, sites the new hotels, and resorts coming. Up. Stay. A while and you'll, start seeing tourist, buses loaded. With foreigners, who, don't mind spending, cash in, Varadero. In. The southern part of Matanzas, there's. A small town called Australia. Not, much happening, but significant. For a reason. Vivillon. Thunks iake Felipe. Like many Cubans knows, the town's historical. Importance. Cubans. Say it was this building during the Bay of Pigs conflict, that Fidel Castro, used as his, command center. NBC. In, school, he learned Cubans volunteered, to fight and came by foot on horse, and even, used their bicycles, to get to this area. This. Building, is a reminder. Of the failed us-backed, invasion. That gave Castro, a military, victory and more, international. Acclaim, one, of the, moments. Of, pride. In my life but, to the s Airways was, there now, 73, years old. He. Remembers, getting to the source of Cuba overnight. There, were so many things happening, in your mind that. I got young age was very difficult to digest the Cuban immigrants, was 18 years old fighting, for a free, Cuba he and other exiles, signed, up and were, trained by the CIA in Latin American countries when, we landed, here he, shows us how it happened, and how it all went downhill fast, it was a terrible, feeling terrible. Feeling they were outnumbered out, mant oh I thought it was 183. Not enough weapons everything went wrong nothing went right ammunition, ran out quickly when the helicopters shooting at us from the airplane, is ruining us and the ability through the earth and meanwhile. I was walking on the beach thinking, what's, gonna happen to my life why, is this happening and worst of all no, backup not one plane, two, shot. One. Bullet in. Cuba the. United States were my number one the conflict, lasted several, days a total, of a hundred and four men killed 68. In combat. That's, you that's me shows, us a picture taken three days after he became a prisoner, of war he's. The guy in the white shirt that was in place, it had to be and that was my duty to be there. Back. In Cuba on the road to Bay of Pigs more, reminders, of those who sacrifice, their lives have, you keep driving along, this road you also run into monuments, like this one monuments, that, honor, the fallen people like this man Ignacio, Rolando, Abreu. Filipa says another nine miles and we're in Playa larga on the bay where it happened.
We. Walked through some trees and find a rocky beach. Hey. Nick. What'd you do Felipe, then points to the bay tells us this, is where the invading, boats anchored, and where, exile fighters disembarked. We, head farther south along the coast to find playa, he dome where, we visit Musel, he doll tanks. And planes adorn, the front inside. We get the Cuban version of the story complete. With weapons of all shapes and sizes used. During, the invasion. Cubans. Fighting, Cubans each side defending, ideals, they, thought would take their country to greatness. Still. Ahead we're not gonna do de the port of Murrieta we're Cubans recall the Exodus in 1980, welcome, to the world of Toback where to take you inside a farm and one of the most important, provinces, of the island, plus the, latest underground. Obsession, that keeps Cubans entertained. We. Drive into the province of my avenging. Eminent. MNT, Kolhapur OPA Mucha. India, mainly, driven by agriculture. But mostly industrial he, says it's, one, of the two newer provinces. Created, by the Cuban, government in, 2011. Its. Capital, san jose de las lajas not, too far from the city of Havana is home, to one of the distilleries, of the, famous Havana, Club. As we make our way through we, stop to fill the air in our tires. One. Of the issues we had this morning that that, one of our tires was low on air, but. You can't find air in most gas stations so what we did is we drove. By and saw, this guy that says he had air and here, we are doing, what we need to be doing putting. Air on that tire so we can make sure that we continue our trip these, are folks that do this for their own business, and make. Some money by providing, air to folks, like us. At. This point we. Drive two out of the Mesa. A small. Province near Havana also. Created, recently. We, stopped, where. You cannot miss. The. Endless sugarcane, crops. You. Also cannot, miss how Cubans live in this province. After. Driving through several, neighborhoods for. Quite some time we. Asked around and we're told a. Polo aloha. Durante, el paladar. Del Gordo, what's the place to eat. Paladar. Is the name Cubans used to talk about restaurants, they run from their homes for. This family this is their, pride a hut. With two tables, in a bar soaked. By, the pouring, rain that, easily, snuck through its roof made. Of palm branches. We. Had not been there five minutes a thunderstorm, forced, us to take cover. Journalist. Mario, Alonso asked if they've lost power they, say yes laugh about it and continue, cooking. They, keep molding, the mix to make the croquettas some. Ready, to be served. Our. Guide Philippe it and our producer Michelle, watch as the, rain keeps coming. The. Downpour continues. And so, do they, with the help from a small battery-operated. Lamp. They're thankful their Gaston, still, works. When. The lightning and thunder stops we'll get power back they say sometimes, it's quick sometimes, it takes a while. Cubans. Face obstacles every, day, so. Much rain folks here in art Vanessa spent, hours, cleaning, up the mess. Always. Looking for ways as they say to, wrestle battle to figure it out and keep, going. This. Runs, this pelota, we, talk about the changes in u.s. Cuba relations. She. Says she's happy to see what's, happening, and hope, something, good comes out of it but, this wants to at least be, able to see her youngest daughter more, often who lives in Hialeah. Despite. The obstacles, lunch. Is served and our only stop in the town of Artemisa as our, journey continues. Shipping. Containers is what you see coming into, mightyena a terminal. Is Cuba's newest economic. Attraction, they say it will rival any ports, in America. It's. Bay it's, now a playground, for schoolchildren taking.
Advantage Of their summer vacation. The. Offloading, cranes and containers, service, background to life in a small town that's. Inextricably. Intertwined, with. History, in South Florida. Often. The distance you see a brand new port here off the coast of Mari el but it was in these very same waters, 35, years ago thousands, of Cubans took off. In. 1980. Local, ten documented. The migrant, crisis. Fidel. Castro, then in charge allowed, Cubans to leave by, the time it was all over. Some. 125,000. Cubans came, to America, on mostly, chartered, boats. Irregular. Or chamber. I familia Roberto Thomas is a Cuban exile who decided to rent a boat with, hopes he could bring back 80 relatives. Thomas, once a political, prisoner in Cuba who fled with his family on the freedom, flights in 1970. Found, himself going. Back to Cuba he, and several friends split the. $45,000. Cost to, rent a 65, foot boat, Sally. Mally. Mankai. Your worship they. Left Key West and eventually, made, it to Mariela, do we all say the am own, city owns area pasando, it'll be another piece of Arkham 11 days waiting, with little to eat and sleeping. On the floor of the boat tsavorite. Of Buda a torturous. Experience, he says remembers. Having to pay off cuban officers, so, he could get his family, members on board promotion. Toasting when they say. They. Brought back a hundred. And fifty six migrants, but, only three, were, family, members me. Hermano la, Senora amis, Hanina he, brought back his brother his brother's wife and their, daughter, the rest were, strangers, a small. Percentage, we later learned had, just been released from prisons, some, mentally. Ill others. Castro. Wanted, out. Back. On our journey in ma DL where. Nancy. Leamas Diaz remembers, family sobbing as relatives. Left she, recalls seeing hundreds. Of boats. Lengthy. Bella. Famiglia, Felicia, Vasquez Hernandez, says it was tough to see folks watch as families. Left because. We knew says, the 80 year old they, were not coming, back. There. Was also the fear they, may lose their lives at sea the. Florida, Straits unfortunately. Is something, Cubans know too well for. Damas it's the only time, he has returned, to his native land he, never plans, to go back. Coming. Up mom drive about what are the most scenic and famous, parts of Bunnell de Mayo then how, Wi-Fi, spots are sprouting, up across the, island that don't like the Luna and still ahead we, hear from a Cuban dissident, and her hopes for the island when Cuba coast to coast returns. It's. Not unusual to see this in Pinal derail a. Man. In his horse-drawn, carriage, with cigar in hand in the, province, known for, growing tobacco. This stogie he says he bought at the store but, he doesn't have to go far to find it, walk, away no I had the component, Jose Manuel whom Co will tell you in banal, de real growing tobacco is, a family, thing. He's. Been part of this cooperative, 28. Years his father and grandfather all, did, the same thing he, remembers working the fields as a child. We. Were born / do seing tobacco he says this, is what we do okay ray rayd the phone class after the 62, year old was gracious, enough to show, us what happens once. The leaves are taken, from the fields. He. Took us inside this warehouse made. Simply, a wood. Where. The leaves are separated. Based on where they grew on the plant, you'll. See similar, looking structures, dotting, the landscape as you drive into banana peel. The. Man Anita Olivier. Un-american trophy, nose and the coroner. Explains. The different types of leaves and shows, us how they're stored think, of this warehouse as an oak barrel which is used to house an aged wine again, you see report. On where the, warehouse plays the same role for the tobacco leaf it houses, three, to four tonnes at a time. But. During the season they can produce up to 46. Tons of tobacco. Jonathan. Alex young uncle, takes us to the other side of the warehouse where something, important, happens. Part. Of the process is separating, the leaves what you see these women doing is choosing the, good from, the bad everything. Is done by hand from, the planting of the seeds to the making of a cigar and nothing. Is wasted what, doesn't work is used elsewhere on the, cigar como, avec that is so Alto telephone, no a castle retribution enough ain't it we asked uncle how the changing, u.s. Cuba relations would, affect his work, on. The contrary, he says better, relations, may help bring materials, they now do not have access to like, fertilizers, and machines they sometimes have to get from Europe which, are too expensive it's, equipment he would not just use to grow tobacco. On. The offseason, these Cuban farmers also grow other vegetables, and grains uncle's. Family relies. On the land. It's. How they survive. In. Banan del Rio Vinny Alice is. A must-see. So. We stopped there first, I didn't, meet at all. In.
One Report out. An. Overlook with abuse of a lush beautiful. Valley equal. Boiler hissing it's, a reality. Felipe, our guide shows, us the town out in the distance, while the tourists take pictures. And. Check out the knickknacks they can buy a, picture. A spot not. Just for tourists though. Okay. Born. In Bonanza, real are. You now, living in Switzerland. But. Back for, a very, important. Time in her life. Hurricane, says. Oh yeah. The rite of passage for teenage, girls and for, this one back, to her native country to. Celebrate. Me. Mom I got a yes and I rob Millikan's Thank You Claudia, Cruz says her, mother wanted to celebrate her king says here, in Pinal de rio que, son a lot ma recuerda. Las fotos. Ela. Fiesta quick on Bella famiglia, it's. All about, the memories the pictures, and the celebration, with family, but, she emphasized, the, pictures, and. The. Penguin. Paseo, mira. La foto Humira, Quentin, Yankees, when. I turned 40 she says I want, these pictures, to remind me when, I was 15. Music. Is what brought these friends from Denmark, to this very spot by, way of Havana, they've been learning how to dance back in Denmark what, do you take away from being here in Cuba, I think. The, quietness. And. The, life of Cubans. Steen, Hansen, told us he wants to see Cuba as it, is now the, product, of 50-plus years of revolution and an, American, embargo it's. Tough for Marion elseís who has visited twice before so, has naturally, developed, ties on the island. It's so difficult for me to see that they. Don't have any freedom at all they're in prison like in a prison for. Those newfound, friends she has made she, wants more freedom of expression, freedom to, travel and the, ability, to earn decent wages. Down. In the valley you'll, find this prehistoric mural. Prehistoric. Only innate, the. Mural painted, a couple decades ago pays, tribute to Cuba's, native people a. Rich. Culture, and history that's helping the current residents, the island. In. The town of being ours. It. May not seem like it but its people are always hustling, on. The. Main Street under the shadow of Jose, Marti they. Wait and wait. Things, seem slow at first crossed. Away from the main square. You'll. Notice a couple women who sit and chat whatever. Reason they don't want to talk to us but, they keep waiting. Walk. Two houses down and you'll find these, at a small store the, first sign that tourists, come here. You'll. Have mountain views says this man who shows us a laminated. Flyer with scenic, pictures, the, attention is on us until. The. Buses show up. Tourists. From all over the, world get bombarded with offers.
This. Is the center of beanie al is typically what happens here the folks who live here come, and greet the tourists, hoping to rent out their properties. This. Young man knows enough English to get his message across the. Home he tells the French tourists is available. Today he, goes on to list all the amenities, within, a few, days a, see private, bathroom, and hot water and. If the Cubans get rejected. Which. They often do they, go on to the next person they'll. Remind you they make a living doing something else. This. Young man tells us he's a singer, but does this to get by. At. The park across the street in Committee on, echeverria, watches, the spectacle. For. Years the 83, year old worked on coffee plantations. With, cattle, milking, cows. Now. He's retired, making. $8, a month that. Is barely, enough to eat. Up. Next how Cubans are getting illegal, access to information and entertainment from, abroad plus, the, hope for Cuba's future from a child of the revolution. Our. Day gets started, in downtown, Havana, an. Ever-changing capital. Which, is still under the shadow of the Revolution, the. Seat of government long. Criticized. For being oppressive. Has, built these along. Rumba. Busy. Area in Havana, their, Wi-Fi, access points, and you'll find them surrounded. By Cubans, typically. Young ones who, cannot, get, enough to. Get connected they buy cards, from the state-owned, telecommunications. Company, this, card is worth $2, and you get an hour worth of internet the problem is a lot of these folks here in line especially the young ones they say it's way too expensive. Aiello. Here, we, found Enrique santanaya, who uses the card to talk to his mother who's, in Nicaragua, she's on a mission and talk, about a mission, it takes, about half an hour cab ride for him to, get to this spot gathered, there well at all, so. Yeah did anymore he works as a tour guide he says making about $15. A month the, internet carts are a luxury, to say the least but, no matter where we went in Cuba the obsession, was obvious in every. Province typically. At the town central square we found mostly, young people sitting. On benches pets down focused. On screens, no matter the device. It's, a must for someone like mightily, noble who's constantly trying to stay informed how about her mother and stepfather she, showed us some pictures on Facebook she's able to buy internet carts because, of some financial help from, her mother. Once. A month is Romain. Martinez, can afford a big. Sacrifice. He says they, only hope access, gets better and that's, what this group of Americans, want, as well it's, been a great opportunity to. See the culture and everything else that has to offer all young and optimistic, about. A communist, country some, never thought they'd be able to visit we met them while we were trying to hail a cab all visiting. The island, they say because, of the changes in travel, announced, by President, Obama earlier, this year. Havana. Is where we first signed but. What you cannot see is another. Addiction, it involves, technology. As well it's, about access and in. Order to tell you about it we couldn't show you his face because. It's, illegal. We're. Looking, a little sick he distributes, he says does, it produce and will not tell us how he gets it I. Mean. I don't mean to say I. Buy it resell, it he says and like, me there, are thousands, who live off of this we were there as he was downloading files copying. Them and get another thumb drive. A. Segment of. Him and its content, that aired last week he says. Part. Of what Cubans call in packet, day the, package, an underground, business that has been around a while in, w