Naples and Pompeii
Oh. Bungle. A looping. Loopiness. I'm, Rick Steves back with more of the best of Europe this time we're, exploring Naples. It's a city that's living in the streets today as it, has for centuries Bella. Napoli its lovable, chaos. Naples. Is Italy in the extreme if, you like Italy as far south as Rome go further south it just gets better it fiddly is getting a little overwhelming, by the time you get down to Rome think twice about going further Italy. Intensifies. As you plunge deeper and punching. Deeper that's exactly, what we're doing this time as we explore, Naples. We'll. Go shopping Neapolitan. Style dodge scooters, in Naples, crazy traffic, explore. The city's vibrant neighborhoods. Admire. Exquisite, ancient, mosaics, taste. Pizza, in its birthplace then. We, climb the lip of a slumbering, volcano, and wander. The amazing, ruins of the Roman town it destroyed. So. Many European, travel dreams take you to Italy the, Bay of Naples area, about, three hours south of Rome is filled, with fun and fascination, from, Naples will, climb smoldering Mount Vesuvius and, visit, the ruins of Pompeii. Centuries. Before Christ Naples was a thriving Greek commercial, center called Neapolis, or the new city over. The ages it became an important center ruled, by a series, of foreign, overlords, in the, 18th century Naples. Finally became the capital of its own independent, Kingdom then. With the unification, of Italy in 1861, Naples. Fell from being an important, political capital to just, another provincial, town. Neapolitans. Lament that after their city joined the newly United Italy its riches, were swallowed, up by the new country as the, city's wealth was used to fund the industrial, expansion of the North Naples, eventually, lost its status and glamour today. Italy's third-largest city feels in many places like an urban jungle its. Lack of open spaces or parks makes it Europe's most densely, populated city. Watching. The police try to enforce traffic sanity, is almost comical in this gritty City. The. Vast Piazza, Garibaldi facing. The train station provides an off-putting, welcome, to those arriving by train. But. Get beyond this and Naples. Surprises. The observant, traveler with its good humour and decency. It's. People have an impressive, knack for living, eating, and. Raising. Children in the streets. Southern. Italy's leading City Naples, offers a fascinating, collection of museums churches and, eclectic, architecture. This, tangled, mess as intense, and urban scene as anything you'll find in Western Europe still, somehow manages, to breathe, laugh, and sing, with, a captivating. Italian accent. Naples. Fish market wiggles and squirts from under one of the city's surviving, medieval gates, each. Stall is eye-catching is. The seafood fresh most. Of it's still alive. Wandering. Through this seam enjoy. The playful competition, of the singing merchants. 7:01. In. So many ways you'll find southern Italy is a distinct, culture from the north people. Here are more fun-loving, and easygoing. See that even like she knows. It ha. Naples. Has long suffered from a bad reputation. Unemployment. Is chronically high and past local, government set an example that the Mafia would be proud of but, lately with, mayors committed, to safety in law and order the city has more police and feels, much safer. Still. Just to be cautious assume, any jostle, or commotion, is actually, a smokescreen created, by a thief team up to no good con. Artists are more clever than you and, also assume, able-bodied, beggars are actually pickpockets, keep, your money belt hidden. Neapolitan. Traffic is thrilling. Red. Lights are considered, discretionary. Pedestrians. Need to be wary particularly, of the motor scooters, be, careful, but be a suitable while. Many timid tourists get stalled on the curb I get, across quicker by, jaywalking, in the shadow of confident, locals. Rather. Than seeing Naples as a long list of sites see, it's great Archaeological Museum which, will visit later and then capture the spirit of the city by walking through its historic, core Spa. Kenapa we literally, split, Naples is a perfectly, straight street that dates from ancient Greek times it, leads to the colorful heart of the old city. TECO's. Of ancient, Neapolis, survived the, original Greek Street plan is remarkably, intact and back then bike, today all, businesses by day became. Private homes after hours and life tumbled, out of the homes and into, the lanes today. This, scene is just one, more page in the 2000, year old story, hub, Naples and to. Understand, that story I'm joined by my Neapolitan. Friend and fellow tour guide Roberta.
Mazzarella. New. Name it it occurs, right on the streets today as it has for centuries. Kids. Turn a white spot in the sidewalk into a soccer field. Walls. Are crusty with posters and definite, myths. Neighborly. Chitchat, and heated, arguments, take place curbside. Blue, buckets how busy moms connect, with the delivery boy. Everyone. Seems connected by cellphones, and. Fast. Food comes, in the form of a folded pizza. The. Tiny street side Chapel of Maradona is dedicated. To diego maradona a soccer, star played for naples back in the 1980s. We. Loved soccer, in Italy soccer is like religion. In Napoli specially, Luque, here look what we have Maradona. Our big superstar, the soccer hero, that's, his hair and when. We, try to him the city client. Deaths it appears, and lacrima napoli time him this, is the template of Maradona, the temple model. Even. Though for many Italians soccer is like a religion, churches, remain an important part of the community stepping. Into the lavishly, baroque Jesu nuovo, Church you'll learn how along, with sports heroes, Neapolitans. Have their religious, heroes to. This. Much adored statue celebrates Giuseppe, Moscati a Christian, doctor famous for helping the poor a steady. Stream of the neighborhood faithful remember him and hope, he remembers them, as a stop here as part of their daily worship routine. Muscari. Was so loved by the local community, that when he died in 1927. There is a movement to make him a saint after it was shown that he had cured two people of deadly diseases, he was fast-tracked to sainthood in 1987. The. Church where the Saint preached has made a small Museum covered with X vote II these. Are given as thanks for prayers in this case to Saint Moscati that, were answered. Each. Has a symbol, of the ailment, cured heart. Disease lung. Problems, a sick, child whatever. A. Display. Shows the great doctors apartment his possessions, and photos a. Bomb. Casing, hangs in the corner in 1943. It fell through the dome of father moscati's, church but destroyed, almost nothing, some. Say yet another miracle. The. Nearby Spanish, quarter is Naples at its rawest and most characteristic. Pause, at any street corner to enjoy, a vivid, slice of Neapolitan, life, and. Don't. Forget to look up with, no yards families make full use of their tiny balconies. This. Is a bath so leaving that's all ethics what, does that mean I can mean you, know so, literally lo yeah. It's like a small appointment, to three, bedrooms, four. Five six seven eight nine people, just okay, the tip the traditional, sort of romantic life, in the streets of life in disagreeable, yeah, many, people might, have money to go away from here but they still stay here. No. Taste of Naples is complete without a pizza, antica, pizzeria, dama Kelly is a favorite. Baking. In just the right combination of, fresh dough mozzarella, and tomatoes, in traditional, wood-burning ovens, this, restaurant, is considered, by many the, birthplace, of pizza. They. Brag takes several years of practice to get the dough just rent, catering. The pizza purists, the menu is brief just, two kinds, marinara. Comes with tomato sauce oregano. And garlic no. Cheese. Margarita. Celebrates, the unification. Of Italy named. After the first Italian Queen it comes with the colors of the Italian flag, red. Tomatoes, white. Mozzarella cheese, and a, garnish, of green, basil.
Italians. Who come to the states are not impressed, by thick and fancy pizzas, judging, from the enthusiasm, of those munching these hot tasty, pies what, really matters is not the quantity of, ingredients but. The quality. The. Sweeping, Bay of Naples arcs. From its teeming cities south past, the ancient ruins of Pompeii all the, way to genteel, Sorrento, the Gateway to the Amalfi Coast and towering. Above is, the mighty volcano, Mount, Vesuvius. The. Entire Bay is well served by a rickety, but reliable commuter, train because, it circles under Mount Vesuvius the, trains called the circum, Basu viana. From. The Pompeii stops shuttle bands take curious visitors up the volcano to the end of the road. Very. Nice week ok, go, graduate from. There a 30-minute. Hike takes you to the 4,000, foot high summit, of mainland, Europe's only, active volcano, belly. Up to the crater edge viewpoints, the. Last eruption was in 1944. The. Steaming vents are a reminder that while the Sioux vyas may be quiet it's, just, taking a geological. Map, hiking. Around the craters lip you enjoy spectacular views. Of its fertile and densely populated. Surroundings. While. Mount Vesuvius is, sleeping today in 79. AD the volcano exploded, sending, a cloud of ash and cinders, twelve miles into the sky it, spewed, for 18 hours sending. A red-hot avalanche, racing, down the mountainside at about 100 miles an hour burying. The city of Pompeii in 20 feet of scalding debris. Life. In Pompeii was stopped in its tracks, today. Excavations. Of this once-booming city offer the best look anywhere, at ancient Roman, life for. Archeologists, Pompeii. Was a shake-and-bake windfall. Ancient. Rome controlled, the entire Mediterranean. Sea that, made it a kind of free trade zone and Pompeii, was an important, port town it, was big 20,000. People it, was an important commercial center imaginisce square just busy with market activity, and because. It was a port it was a kind of a sailor's quarter and that meant it was fun lots, of bars baths, brothels, restaurants, and places of entertainment. The. Main square or forum, was Pompey's, commercial, religious, and political, center the, Curia House to government, it, was built of brick and mortar a Roman, invention it, was originally faced with gleaming marble. The. Basilica, or La Court was nearby here. You see the Basilica, floor plan that medieval churches adopted after, Christianity. Became legal in good. Roman style the city was well organized, with a grid street plan contained, within its walls. Remains. Of homes give, a glimpse into Roman, lifestyles. The. House of Vettii the home of a wealthy merchant shows. The typical layout of a mansion its. Colonnaded, atrium, with, formal, garden and water flowing, to give freshness was, ringed by colorfully. Frescoed rooms. Roman. Dining rooms were always richly, decorated. This. One shows little Cupid's playing out commercial activities, of the town and collecting, flowers. Taking. Your knocks on a chariot and. Enjoying. The local wine. For. A better understanding, of life at Pompeii, Italian. Archaeologist, Caetano Manfredi is taking, us on a walk, Pompey's. Impressive, baths were just past the gymnasium after, working. Out Romans, would relax be pampered, and enjoy, the social scene in a public bath. This. Was the Tippie Durham so people coming from gymnasium. After sport they, well they, were massaged by the slaves, inside. The niches all around there were oils, creams. Perfumes. For the body messages, a part, of the ceiling is still original and so, we can see how beautiful, decorated, was once all the ceiling, they, were massaged by the slaves. 2530. Minutes before. Going to the sauna because tepidarium. Amin's lukewarm. Bath, after. The tepidarium, that, was the Khalid area which was the hot bath beside. This wall there was a room where the slaves, made, fire. The hot air went. Underneath, the double floor because this floor is supported. By little, columns, and the, hot air went, between. The double walls there, was a circulation, of a hot air and just when everything was really hot they, opened the water of a fountain over here the, water slowly, fell on the floor the floor was so hot and this produces, steam, the, last stop was the frigidarium.
The Core the bed. As, we still do today after, the SONA - harder the muscles, and for the body circulation. To call the bath. Water. Was abundant in this well plumbed city fountains. Provided, a social center at intersections, and a, steady stream of water flush to the chariot rutted streets clean. So. Why the stones in the street here well there was always the water flowing, along the roads and washing to the roads so that's why I decided to walk all over and, the stepping, stones so, that the pedestrians, yes, the road. Avoiding. Wet feet very, smart. While. The site is evocative the horrors of that day in 79, AD are hard, to imagine thousands. Of people died in this eruption here, we have the cast of those people, you, know during, the excavations. Sometimes, the archaeologists fell, under, the volcanic materials, some empty, spaces left, by, the decomposition of the bodies and so what they did they, injected. The liquid plaster, in these empty spaces the. Liquid plaster, took the form over the previous, bodies, and when, it dried, up the, archaeologists, the clean and all the ash away, and appear, the, body in, the same position, the main was when he died the two thousand years ago one. Day a thriving City the next day this. Pompeii. Was excavated, back in the 1700s, before, Italy was United the. Local king who ruled from Naples demanded, bring me back the best of whatever you find that's, why even though this site is so impressive the finest, art and artifacts of Pompeii ended, up back in Naples at the National Museum of Archaeology. For. Lovers of antiquity, this museum by itself makes Naples, a worthwhile stop, the. City's one essential, museum visit offers, the best possible, peek into the art of Pompeii. The. Collection, ranges from grand statuary, and exquisite. Mosaics, to the most intimate details of everyday Roman, life. It's. Easy to forget that for many centuries the people of Pompeii, painted, Mount Vesuvius like, this before. It blew its top. These. Bronze, statues, like so much of the art from Pompeii, are 1st, century, BC copies, of 4th, century, BC Greek originals, they. Decorated the holiday home of Julius Caesar's father-in-law. Resting. Hermes with, his tired little heel wings is taking a break but, it's clear he'll be flying off again soon. The. Drunken faun singing. And snapping, his fingers to, the beat is clearly, living for today, true. To the epicurean, philosophy Caesars. Father-in-law, subscribe to. Pompey's. Many finely, crafted mosaics. Give a sense of the sophistication, and wealth of the city and its people. Culture. Thrived, at Pompeii, this, mosaic takes us backstage at, the theater just before, curtain time actors. Are being dressed, instruments. Tuned and the. Masks, that still symbolise, comedy, and tragedy today are ready, to go. Another. Finely, detailed and, realistic mosaic, shows street musicians, boisterously. Entertaining, those not quite up to a night at the theater. This. Scene from the Grand Battle of Alexander, with over a million pieces decorated, a floor in Pompey's, house of the faun in. This epic battle Alexander. And his Greeks meet and defeat Darius, in the Persians. The. Outcome is clear by, the fear in the eyes of the Persians and the focus and determination of, Alexander.
The Great. Notice. The dynamism, shading. Perspective. Everything. The Renaissance artists, would work so hard to relearn, 1500, years later. The. Secret room contains an assortment of erotic. Statues, and frescoes these, were commonplace, in Pompey's wealthier, homes in fact the rich actually commissioned. This art to entertain, their guests some, of its humorous some. Of its erotic you'll have to come here in person to actually see that and some, of it is simply beautiful. In. This scene a lusty faun. Playfully, pulls the sheet off what he thinks is a beautiful, woman only, to be shocked to learn she's, a hermaphrodite. Perhaps. The original mamma, mía. Venus. The patron, goddess of Pompeii was a favorite pin-up girl again. The art of Pompeii, shows an intimate, and impressive, mastery, of realism. The. Much copied, Three Graces celebrated. Elegance, beauty, and a love of life. The. Museum also has highlights from other parts, of the Roman Empire the Far nazy collection, fills a grand hall with statues, excavated, from the Baths of Caracalla in, Rome, the. Collection centerpiece, is the largest intact, statue from antiquity said, to be carved out of one piece of marble it was, restored, in part by Michelangelo. The. Toro far nazy features, a tangled, group with a woman being tied to a bull. Once. Upon an ancient Greek time that woman, dear che seduced, a king who abandoned, his pregnant Queen the. Abandoned Queen gave birth to twin boys who grew, up and after, killing their deadbeat dad they tied dear Jade to the horns of a bull to be bashed against, a mountain, the. Action is masterfully, caught as hoofs, flail. Capes. Fly and the. Dog snarls. You, can almost hear the ball snorting. The. Jilted Queen serenely, oversees, the action as ancient. Justice. Prevails. Stepping. Back out on the streets the immense Piazza, plebiscito celebrates. The plebiscite or vote in 1861. When, Naples chose to join Italy. The. Royal palace illustrates, how the city has suffered through many foreign rulers each. Of the eight kings in the niches is from a different dynasty. Norman. German, French, Spanish, Spanish. Spanish again, French, the brother-in-law of Napoleon, and finally. An Italian. Victor. In annual, the second Italy's, first king. The. Adjacent, Victorian, iron and glass of the hundred-year-old, galleria. Umberto uno, takes, you back to a grander, time newly. United Italy was flush with energy and optimism and this, was, a virtual, palace, for the public and across. The street the Grand Cafe gubrious, retains, the elegance, of the 1860s. It's a classic, place to sample a unique Neapolitan. Pastry, called sfogliatelle. A crispy, pastry filled, with, sweet ricotta cheese you. Can stand at the bar or pay double to sit either. Way imagine, the cafe buzzing, with the intellectuals. Journalists. And high society, big shots who sipped and munched here during, Naples 19th, century heyday. Vibrant. Naples the capital, of South Italy is a springboard, for plenty of travel fun we. Climbed Mount Vesuvius and. Resurrected. The rubble at Pompeii, but, that's just the beginning this region's, charms the. Genteel, town of sorrento provides a comfy gateway to, the dramatic, Amalfi Coast and the. Short jet boat ride takes you to the enchanting, Isle of Capri, but. All that will need to await another, travel, adventure. Europe. Has a lifetime of travel experiences. And one by one we're, sharing them all I hope you've enjoyed our look at colourful Naples and evocative Pompeii, thanks, for joining us I'm Rick Steves until next time keep, on travelin, ciao. Walk. Together okay here. We go okay, oh. Here. We go fella Napoli. Okay. Here we go. Back. With more than.