Porsche 911 Project Bodywork - Block Sanding Filler

Porsche 911 Project Bodywork - Block Sanding Filler

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Hey, everyone the, focus this week on my, project, Porsche 911, is gonna be on the, bodywork I know I, have. Put this off for, several weeks going, through some, chassis modifications. And other fun stuff but now it's time to get Sandy and get, dusty, and do some bodywork. Okay. Now the manufacturer. Of this particular epoxy. Recommends. Sanding. It before applying filler if it's been more than seven days and you guys know it's been more than seven days since I shot the epoxy primer on this so. This, is practically. Fully cured, and it needs some mechanical. Tooth to. For. The filler to bite into it now I don't want to sand too much because I want the protection of the epoxy primer on the bare metal so all I'm trying to do is take the gloss off this with, some 180, grit and then I'm gonna be skimming this thing with filler I've already started, a little bit of scuffing, just. To just to kind of see what it was like how. It sanded but, I need to get all the gloss off and then I'm gonna mix up some filler and start coating it up. So. Now I'm ready, to start block. Sanding, across this gap and. To. Do that it's important, that the door is in its position, that it's going to be for, the rest of its life. Here's. A cool homemade. Tool anybody. Anybody, want to guess what this is for. Okay. I've got the door striker, installed, and adjusted so, now I can actually close the door. And. It. Stays where it should so it's adjusted, so. Now I have the gaps back. To what I worked so hard to get at previously. So. One of the important, things to note is these hinges, have. To be, tight. So. I have, already gone, through and replaced the bushings in the hinges so, this door doesn't, have any play, up. Or down or twist, or anything there's no play in the hinge pins and that's, really important, when trying to do. The body work is that the door is not going to move its gonna stay where. The hinges tell it to stay and the latches tell it to stay also. The. Rubber, is intact, so this, is the factory. Rubber. I'm not, sure I'm gonna replace it but. I most likely will obviously. Got some pain on this part here but, the rubbers in place and this is still soft and supple, so it is providing, some pressure against, the door latches, as the door closes. That's. Important, the, other thing that's important, is the, elevation. Of the door gap not, only the door gap in this direction but the elevation, from here. So. Remember this is just bare metal with epoxy primer on top so, I've selected. The, kind of the best average fit. All. The way around the door and it does start to deviate right, about here. There. Is a little gap there. So. So, what happens is right, now the body. Is sort of caving in a little bit as it approaches this door so. That's what the filler is for and. I'm. Gonna be building up some some filler on this side now, the factory, primer and filler was already, removed, so, this is not the stock door and this, is what happens when you're just trying to put parts together on a Frankenstein, car but, I'm not worried about building this up a little bit with filler and I'm, gonna be block sanding across the gap to get a nice smooth transition from door to fender I've. Already begun kind. Of scuffing, up this surface, for, the filler to go on top still, have more to do just taking the shine off of that. For. These concave, areas I have a cylindrical, block that, I'm using. To get in those. Rounded. Areas. Okay. Now hopefully you can kind of see the difference between the glossy there on the door and then, the sanded, here, on the, the, quarter panel and I. Try. Not to go too far, you can see some. Of the the lumpy. Weld, areas, developing. And. I didn't try to straighten anything I'm just trying, to scratch, the surface without. Removing, too much primer. There's. The door glossy. This. Lighter, gray is is, the sanded, with this. Is with 180 grit so. I'm gonna spread filler over this. Entire panel, as. A skim coat and, like. I showed earlier with my ruler I don't expect that it's gonna need a lot of filler but, they're you know obviously, is some some. Waves in this and any. Waves in this panel also, any, sort, of your regularities, with how the quarter panel matches the door is going, to get resolved, using filler.

Okay. I just got done cleaning. Up my my spreaders. You. Saw me mixing, the the. Bondo, it's actually called Rage ultra, and I. Mixed it on aluminum, kind of a small piece probably should get a bigger one I tried. To mix it as best I could and then I applied it to the, car I tried. To work it in to the scratches, I put in the epoxy the best I could so, I was putting a lot of force on there trying to spread it trying, to make sure it has good adhesion, to, the car you're probably wondering. You know why am I just covering, the car in what. A lot of people call bondo, so, plastic, filler is. Kind. Of got a bad rap, I'm. Gonna use it too this is called a skim coat and. It's basically skim coat the entire car and and the reason why I'm. Doing that is because, I, want it to be as straight as possible kind. Of for the lowest possible cost, now. I did. Do everything I, could to get the metal as straight as possible and, the gaps in the door fits and all that as straight as possible and. I do think, it is straight but, the. Process, of making it straight, with good reflections, all the way down the side does, require, additional, work now, there are some people that say I don't use bondo and and they probably don't but. There's sprayable, you, know polyester, primers. Polyester. Fillers that you kind of spray on sort, of does the same thing as this and it, effectively, builds, up the surface to where you can create a flat, good. Reflection, kind of paint job now. You know this is a budget build and I'm, going, the old-school, method which is spreading, this polyester. Filler on the car you know with the spreader, sanding. It back and. Most. Of this is gonna end up on the floor it's only gonna stay in the low spots and the high spots will reveal themselves when I do the block sanding no I'm not trying to hide anything I'm. Sharing, with you this, what, is what a lot of people won't share with you the, whole skim, coat the entire car, with filler, I'm a little finished letting this cure it takes about 20, minutes before I can just knock the, big. Mistakes. Off. And then I'll come back tomorrow morning and do some 80 grit sanding, and now, I'm trying to like I said not. Just get, rid of these weld. Marks but create a smooth. Car. That, is gonna look good when painted, okay. Here it is up close in, and you can see that I got, some scraper. Lines in it a lot, of that's unavoidable but, I didn't do a super, great job spreading it out and I. Think I'll get better with this as I have more time in practice but this, is basically, just globbing, it on and, sanding. It off so these heavy lines kind, of reflecting, in the camera there. This will these lines right here will be able to knock down real, quick with I'll probably you hit it with a 36, grit just to get these real heavy. Lines down and then, go. Further with 80 grit now, I put this tape on here to try to preserve this, arch that I worked so hard on for the RS kind of flare and, that's. Just I don't want to do. Too much so I want, to sort, of get this surface, sanded. And then, I'll come back and I'll do more on this surface to. Make sure I can preserve the shape of the car and not, just get, a little out of control, also. More tape up here just to prevent it from getting into these difficult to sand areas right. Here in this area the, tape there will help me you, know make a clean edge on that, so. That's that's, what I'm after, so. You guys can call this a bondo, bucket if you want to I have. No shame in this, method it's. Best. I can do and if. It if, it's a bondo bucket so be it you'll, see here in a minute almost. All this is gonna come off to. Where it's really just an eggshell thickness, okay. It's been about thirty, minutes since. I, applied. The the, filler and I'm. Gonna just knock it down real, quick with, some 36, grit, this, is pretty aggressive so, I only want to hit the really tall. Spots and this. Is a dura. Block it's it's a curved surface. Because. This is largely curved, it, does have a flat side to which I could put some more paper on the back and do that but, I'm just going to you know real quickly knock this down. And go. From there. Many, of you were concerned about the, test. Stan's, integrity. And thought, that there should be some bracing, and stuff and I and I totally agree I said, so in the last video but here's what I'm doing, to increase, the strength. Of the baseplate and I'm, also putting some straps along the back to, triangulate. The sort of structure so it doesn't just flop, over which.

I Didn't, think was likely to begin with but, you can never be too safe when it comes to, jack. Stands and this, is an especially tall jack stand so, I'm putting in some more safety right, now. Okay. Now the most vulnerable position. Of this tire stand is when it's all the way up so, as you can see I've, added some. Almost. Two inch. Flanges. To the base plate that. Goes around the backside the. Front is still left alone so the jack can slide, in without having to roll over anything, and. This carries around through the sides so this does provide some strength. To the base and also. Keeps the base plate flexing. When it's going up, with the jack these. Straps. Really triangulate. This box structure, so if there is a force on the tire going, this way. That. Means that that's going to put this. Bar. Or strap. Here in tension, it doesn't want to go this way because that's going to try to make this longer so, get making that strap there tying it in to the corner of the base plate is going, to prevent this from kind. Of a leaning, tower a piece of this way and then, this strap prevents, it from going this. Way so, using, these in tension is is why there's two one. Is to prevent it from going this way the other wants to prevent it from going this way and of, course all four tires will have this. Same, structure, these. Straps can be removed, when it's time to lower. It so, I weld it on these these studs here. So. You just take the, nuts. Off. This. Will be a little difficult when it's underneath. The car. These. Can flex forward. This. Can flex down and then to, lower it down as original. Baseplate. Is stronger. Than it used to be so I'm. Not concerned about this failing. Anymore I'm gonna weigh this I think it's about 40, pounds of Steel it's. Got to be good enough I am going to add another piece of chalk in here just to prevent the tire from rolling and, one. Of you I think it was Dave had said to. Ratchet. Tie the, tire, to, the, stand. And I think that's a great idea so I'll be doing that too on all, four tires so I, yet to go underneath the car when it's on these stands, and I'm still, going to use a redundant. Stop, in case you. Know there's an earthquake whatever. Might happen I don't, want to, be a victim, of a car landing, on me so I will put another. Redundant. Pair of jack stands or something even taller than a jack stand to. Prevent this thing from falling so, you, know I appreciate all you concerns I hope, this makes. The internet happier, I've, got a lot of feedback on this, design some. Of it wasn't so great so let. Me know what you think about this one I do, think, it's gonna do, the trick but of. Course you guys can be the judge okay. Now I've already taken a lot of the filler off and. You. Can see that most, of those application. Lines are, sort. Of gone there, there's, still some here's here's a big one right here and, I'm gonna just hit that with. The 80 grit so, the next stage will be 80 grit and I'm. Just gonna keep blocking until. I, get. It straight and be it starts to break through to the, primer or to the metal I am, gonna be putting more epoxy primer over the top of the filler so, I don't really want to get down to the metal but if I do it's okay because I can always put. More epoxy primer down, so. That was step, step. One I'm gonna let it cure for a little bit more time and then, hit it with the 80 grit. Okay. Switch to a little bit more flexible, block because. I want to make sure I can follow the curvature and this is 80 grit. You. Okay, I've just gone as far as I'm gonna go with the 80-grit and the. Majority, of this pillar has come off but I'm going to show you up close what. I'm left with and some areas that I could have done better on what, we're looking at is kind, of a camouflage, pattern of, what, the highs and the lows are so. This all smoothed out really nice the, gray is the original epoxy primer and then the the, lighter kind. Of gray is the, the filler so, if, you can read, this carefully, you can see that this this spot here was a little bit high this. Spot here was a little bit low and then, right here you can barely see but this is a tiny bit of metal poking through so as soon as I get to. The. Epoxy, primer or the metal then I stop. Now, I can tell that all the 36 grit, scratches are, gone these, are all 80 grit scratches so, I was, able to stand. Across here and get it to a level position where, I feel, like it's.

Starting To smooth. Out, okay. This is the this, is the lower rear. Fender, area and this is the weld seam right along here this, is an area that I'm gonna need to go back and add a little bit more filler, i sanded. Through right here to the metal this is right, as the weld comes, around the corner and I'm. Not sure if you can see this on camera let me try to adjust. This a little bit okay. There's a spot right about here, that, is not showing, the 80 grit scratches so. I went, to metal here and then it's it's still low in this little tiny section, everywhere. Else I can see my 80 grit scratches. Here's. This, body. Line at the top I was able to keep this preserved. I took the tape off a little. Bit of metal coming through right there. And. Then right up here sanded all the way up to this drip, rail. Alright. So this is a new chapter on this project and it's. Pretty exciting to do something a little different the, nice thing about this bodywork, is it's it's much quieter, so I'm able to work you know into the late. Hours I was doing this up to about 12:30, last night because. It's nice and quiet. Easy to do. There's. A lot more on this to do obviously I'm going to be going around the whole car doing, this and some, of its not going to look too exciting, because it's going to be repetitive so, I'm gonna probably, bounce around skip ahead a little bit as I'm doing, more of the chassis. Modifications. To this car so don't forget to leave a comment below this, project, is all about a, community, and helping each other out you. Know I'm a doer and I'm. I'm working on this the best I can and, I hope it inspires you to get out and build your dream car but, if you have some good ideas especially, when it comes to bodywork please. Leave a comment below I love hearing, from you guys I know that there's some experts, that are that, are on this community and I really appreciate, that so stay tuned next week I'm gonna keep doing chassis modifications. And also some filling and sanding as we, just get all the way around so thanks again see, you next week.

2018-12-29 22:15

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Here's a bodywork playlist if you want to see more: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLO2EVK95VV2TIiugdFruaXHfOgDLGrDqW

Great work and Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas and thank you

Great inspiration again Tom I see your chassis strengthening video got posted on restoration design as well- well done!!

Hi Tom @Garage Time - Restomod .. it is on their FB page

That's cool about restoration design, I wasn't aware of that. I'll have a look.

Nice work Tom! Certainly, some filler is always necessary and accepted as being normal amongst people in the know. More importantly, you're sticking to your budget, and doing the best you can do under your financial circumstances (your budget), and the future really looks really positive! All the best over the Christmas and New Year period to you and family, and I look forward to more of your video's. -- Cheers Chris

Cheers! Enjoy your holiday. I'm in Europe for the holidays with family.

good to see you beefing up the stands mate. It's all about safety and we want to see more from you in the future. Merry Christmas!

Thanks Mick, Merry Christmas!

My favorite part of the build here, yea nothing wrong with a skim coat of filler. The SPI epoxy sands good, doesn't it? I love the fact that their epoxy has a shine to it unlike most and when you sand, its basically a built in guide coat. Nice work!

I'm really impressed with SPI's product and support. I'm going to use their epoxy in the interior, engine bay, trunk, and suspension. It's arguably the toughest and most chemical resistant coating out there.

It’s too bad YouTube didn’t exist when you started the 356 resto. Your rotisserie for it was awesome.

No way, just the rotisserie

Sold the 356?

Yep, I can't believe someone bought it from Indiana!

Great Job! I find it odd that some folks would gripe about plastic filler... especially when all new cars have 50% plastic bodies. Would irony abound to put plastic filler on a plastic body part? Anyway, thanks - this is a great inspiration as I am now starting to repair my 914.

Good point, people are weird....Especially those collectors with their paint meters. Best of luck on your 914. I love those cars.

All the greats use bondo or lead and if they say different theyre fibbers.. you'll need to get it to guide coats to read the highs and lows..

So true... I'm excited to get to the filler primer to really start to see the reflections

Can't wait to see it painted. Great progress .

Thanks, me too!

Nothing wrong with filler when used correctly. I’m just glad you have epoxy on the metal directly, some people will put filler on bare metal, not my preference. I’ve removed filler that was put on bare metal, and found rust between the filler and metal. Awesome video as usual! I’m off work for a week, maybe I’ll get some garage time....thanks for the mention!

Garage Time - Restomod I think what Dave was trying to say is that rust "never sleeps". There could be rust hidden in the bare metal pores, which then continues to corrode under the body filler which was applied directly to the metal. Epoxy provides some rust inhibiting protection. the epoxy chemical reaction also removes moisture from the rusty metal pores as it dries after being sprayed.

Hi Dave, oh man that is a contentious topic for sure. I agree with you of course, but I noticed it says right on the can of filler "500 hrs of salt spray approved". My belief is that for slow moving classic restorations, epoxy first is the way to go. Hope you get some quality garage time. I will not as I'm leaving for Europe today with the family. Happy holidays.

You must have build other cars before, I'm really glad you chose the 911 which is my favorite car in the world. Looking forward to the next video.

Thanks Vincent! This car found me. I wasn't even looking to buy a car when I bought this one. I've always loved the 911. This is my second full resto, but I've played around with cars since I was 16.

People who think it’s a bondo bucket don’t know much about bodywork... that’s nothing! Great job!

True, this is standard procedure. Someone will make the comment though.

Pull the tape off before the filler sets. It will come off a lot better.

Good call! I forgot about that.

Looks great so far!

Thanks, I'm excited to move my way around the whole car

Had to skim coat the entire surface of my Datsun 240z when restoring it, too. I really enjoy your analysis and your advice. I'm inspired - so mission accomplished.

Awesome Bruce. Skim coating is customary with classic car restos. It just feels dirty after spending so much time on straight metal work. Good job on the 240z. I love those cars.

Drew brees doing good body work !!..awesome !!..lol Thanks for the vid man!

Ha ha, thx for watching!

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