Postcards from Newfoundland and Labrador, documentary
I'm. Laura Bain am i presenter, from Halifax, Nova Scotia lover. Of food music. And getting. Outdoors. I'm Shelby Travers am, i presenter, dog, mom let's, see good freedom room makeup. Lover and queen. Of all, things that hails from Ottawa, Ontario. Even, though I'm from the east coast I've never been to Newfoundland and Labrador and I've always wanted to go I've, traveled, all over Canada, but, I've never been east of Quebec I'm interested, in going to Newfoundland, and Labrador because, of its distinct, culture and friendly, people I can't, wait to experience it for myself I imagine, Newfoundland, is filled with spirit, of people and beautiful. Scenery and that's, why I'm taking this journey with Laura to, the rock join. Us as we explore the, rugged landscape. Soak. Up the colorful, culture if, your partner sunny turbot Sally. Brown go and discover the unexpected, I do need you all to pucker up and give this fish a little kiss tongue or no tongue. On. This, great, adventure one. Will never forget. This. Is postcards. From Newfoundland, and Labrador. Well. Laura Frances, and I have only been in st. John's Newfoundland, for a short period of time but we knew there was one place we had to check out first that's right we're up on top of Signal Hill of course and it's absolutely gorgeous up here with the city and the harbour behind us you can hear the cars from st. John's and we're excited to get down there and explore but first we've got some exploring to do up here on Signal Hill let's, go to it, sunset. Is the perfect. Time and Signal, Hill is the perfect, place to get our first taste of st., John's. Signal. Hill offers lots of walking trails and sweeping. 360. Degree views of the city and harbor it's. Also a National, Historic Site home, to the castle-like structure known as cabot, tower cabot. Tower is the place where the first transatlantic, wireless message. Was received in 1901. I'm. Thrilled, to come across a Newfoundland. Dog and introduce Frances, oh my. God you're huge. There. Are five kilometers, of trails to hike around Signal, Hill but. We decide to save our energy for, the downtown. St.. John's is like a mix of a big city in a small town it's, hilly and dense but, it has a very, walkable downtown. The. Famous jelly bean colored houses are everywhere, there, are also lots, of street murals and narrow lanes with staircases, linking, streets. The. First stop on our adventure, in downtown. St. John's is O'Brien's. Music store on Water Street we. Meet up with owner Dave Rowe. Oh. Thanks I'm Laura I'm Shelby and I've also got my guide dog Frances, oh great. Hello, Frances, you. Guys want to come in and check out a few local instruments, yeah. My. Family, the O'Briens, we've been in this building in business since 1906. But. We've actually been a music store since 1939. That's. When my grandfather, took over the property and started to sell musical, goods he had a passion, for music and a passion for Newfoundland, culture, and now, I'm the third-generation owner. Do my best, to, keep that going Dave. Offers me a private lesson on the accordion so. Laura if you're gonna learn something about Newfoundland, music, you've really, got to start with the button accordion it, is probably the quintessential, Newfoundland. Instrument, excellent, I'm really excited I actually love the accordion, and I have no idea how to play it and I've got this absolutely beautiful, sparkling. Red one on my lap and you've got one there too right yes this is an older one but they'll. Work together they, are different. From the piano accordion, it doesn't have a piano keyboard but, it has a few rows of buttons instead. Of piano keys and, another, big difference is for each button you have two different notes as opposed, to a piano accordion we, have one I can give you a quick breakdown of how it works if you if you'd like yeah for sure okay. So you've, already used, your ear valve on your left hand put a little bit of air in there okay so that just lets the air in, a note that's right yeah without making any sound so, you want to put a little bit of air like that and I'll get you to just play a scale we're gonna put our index finger, on the third button down from the top on my right side yeah on your right side and you're gonna push the bellows together for your first note and then, you're gonna pull the, bellows apart for your neck so, you want to start on the first note on the push.
Both, On the next. Go on the next one pull. Energy. Scale and play yes you're in the key of G there zero. They, work much like a harmonica. You had one row of keys that corresponds, to one musical key just like your harmonica would be in the key of G yeah, what, about these buttons on the left side those are your basic company, mint buttons those, are really. One of the reasons why the, new flying accordion, caught on so much in Newfoundland, the, geography. Of our island was such that the population, was dispersed, around the coastlines, and these very small fishing villages so, isolation. Was a major factor in New. Orleans, development. And this. Is a type, of instrument, where it's really a one band, in a box kind of you. Can play your melody on it with your right hand over, here and then, you've got your accompanying, bass chord changes I like it and so a proficient, player can, play melody, and accompany, themselves, all on one instrument so, in order to have a dance or a party and have a entertainment. You just really needed one good accordion player instead of having to, have a group of musicians because. They could play the melody and keep, the rhythm and, the chords going at the same time and, is this still pretty popular like, a new feel and today people like, the button accordion absolutely. It's it's. One of the button accordion capitals. Of the world I would say and it's one, of the few pockets in North America, where it's, incredibly. Popular instrument, and far more popular than the piano accordion, all right well I still need a little bit more practice, I think I'm on my way but do. You want to show me a little bit what this instrument, sounds like well. There's far better players around than me but yes I'll play. A little waltz for you. Beautiful. Well. Laura I hope you enjoyed your little accordion lesson, and I'm gonna leave you to practice there and, I'm going to go introduce Shelby, to a uniquely, Newfoundland, instrument, that, sounds great Dave thanks so much and maybe by the time you get back I'll be playing a wall.
So. Out of all the instruments you have in this story you gave me an ugly, stick, what, does that say oh well, it's not a comment on you it's really a comment, on the stick, itself but, this is a unique, Newfoundland, instrument, that, I thought it'd be interesting to show it, is a, part. Folk park folk art part, musical, instrument. Homemade percussion, instrument, it's made from usually, a broomstick or a piece of driftwood and that, has a rubber boot boot attached to the bottom so you have a thud at, the bottom, then. There's. Bottle. Caps attached, as jingles, that's what's going to make the sound they're, attached with wood screws to the broomstick and then, of course another. Essential item you need an empty tin can on there with some more bottle caps and of course all the beer has to be locally drink and, hopefully. From local breweries, and at, the top we here have here a flow, from a fishing line with. Either a stocking, cap or, a rain, cap on there and an. Intentionally. Ugly face made. On the float there just, for a bit of fun you know he got to be goofy if you're gonna be playing so that's the Newfoundland, Way isn't it yes absolutely yeah, so who. Kind of thought about making. This like what where does the origins, come from well, it's not attributed, to any specific. Individual. It's. More or less a folk, phenomenon. It's just this sort of homemade. Instant. You know instrument, that's just for fun that's played at kitchen parties, and Shedd parties, and it's not so much performance. Instrument for the stage it's. Really a like a fun instrument for around the house and I've also got a, stick. In my hand you know some sort of wood that's got some little cutouts in it what, is this a part of it - this is yeah this is called a tipper it's, a little piece of carved. Wood about, a foot long and it's got those little teeth these little ridges carved, into it yeah and those ridges will be dragged across different. Parts of the stick so, you've. Got two things, going, on here two motions, your, main stick, is going, to be sort. Of thumping. On the ground like you tap your foot right B and then, the tipper gets, dragged across various. Parts of the instrument with your teeth making, those Ridge, sounds, and that goes on the upbeats, or the in-between beats of your thumps okay just, to get started we'd go. With the thumping and then the, upbeats going. Well. That was pretty good I don't think I'm gonna be that good. But. I guess yeah, it is this worry you're now gonna try and teach me how to play this yes instrument, yeah for. Yeah first step okay. So first up the instrument. Will, be thud yep that's right and now if you want to take your tipper yep and that this, is a little, tricky part you want to hit it in between your beats. I. Never claimed to have rhythm that's just the only thing. So. I'm. Gonna keep trying to play it over them but I mean I want to hear you some more all right do you want to hear like really open it up and go yeah. That. Ugly stick looked like a lot of fun how hard was it to play it, actually was hard I think it was just because I'm not that talented they, could see how it would be something that, you know could be a lot of fun to play with and you just have fun with it what was the accordion. Like oh my goodness I am, hooked on the button accordion yeah I love playing it so much, and it was just like they had such a nice energy there and it's so cool to see like a family, business it's gone down for generations yeah, definitely, yeah dave was super nice yes definitely, have been Newfoundland, vibe so I'm glad we got to go absolutely.
The. Weather in st. John's can be unpredictable as. Our first day ends the rain hits the harbor so, we head to George Street the so claimed most, bar populated. Street in all of North America we. Drop in on Christians, a small, packed bar here. We meet owner Brian day wearing. A sweater, a traditional. Black oilskin rain hat and holding a boat paddle, as he presides, over a traveler's, rite of passage. The screechin here. Let's. Bring the Royal Order of speeches to order I understand, we got a whole bunch to want to get screeched in tonight and become. Right proper, honorary. Newfoundlanders. Yes. The. Idea of the ceremonies to try to teach you all a little bit about Newfoundland, when all is said and done you're, gonna be called honorary Newfoundlanders. Brian. Kicks off the ceremony, by serving some flame fried bologna aka. Newfoundland, steak I do, need everybody, to take a small piece of Newfoundland, steak do, not worry about it if you're vegetarian there's, not real much meat in this anyway. We're. Gonna start with Shelby, oh my, god. Thank. You okay. And Laura then, it's time for a Newfoundland, history lesson, in 1497. John Cabot sailed the Atlantic on, his both to Matthew all the way from Bristol England to Bonavista Bay and when he arrived he saw lots of activity, activity in our water now we didn't know what was going on but he dropped his bucket down to fill it up with water and when, he came up to the top of the boat it was filled right to the rim with codfish. Now word got out fast how plentiful the fish were in our, waters that they traveled from all over to settle here and to catch the fish and the South to fish and to trade the fish all around the world as a means of survival, in one, place in particular we traded with was, with Jamaica because in Jamaica they, make wrong and, we, loves wrong. We. Love this so much we would actually get them on that Wharf and we would kiss that fish goodbye knowing, that, it was coming back to us in the way of rum so in keeping with that time and honor, tradition I do have a little buddy for. You to meet, this. Is, a, real, Newfoundland. Codfish, given. The chance this fish could have grown to the height of six, feet tall and weighed as much as a hundred and thirty pounds this, fish will not grow any more than this because it's dead. Its, frozen and it fits perfectly in my freezer I do need you all to pucker up and give this fish a little kiss. The. Next step in our ceremony, is a shot of Newfoundland, screech. Screech. Got his name down on the south coast of our province where one night we were serving up her hospitality, to a US captain and he drank the shot and he yelled at a great big, yell, and a, sergeant came on running into the room and he said who yelled out that god-awful screech, and there was a Newfoundlander, who was sitting at the bar that said screech boy tis. The rum me son and that's, how screech got his name I would like to have a toast for. Those of you. Who. Didn't know I did have the honor of screeching in a meeting Anthony Bourdain back in October it was televised on CNN on a show parts unknown I would. Like to dedicate my toast to him here's, to health and your, company and one for the lasses let's drink and be merry all out of our glass let's drink and be merry bad thoughts to refrain for.
We May or may not ever all be here again up to lips over the gums look out go it here she comes lets her back. So. When. You go back home and they ask you when. You went to Newfoundland I got screeched and they're gonna ask you is yes creature there's only one proper response for this and that is Dida is me old and long may your big jib dross is your screechers. Being. The rest of Canada you might say indeed I am but a Newfoundland we say deed is I need you all to say Dida is at the count of three one two three the. Next part of the phrase is mule. Is a shortened form of the word cottony, which comes over from old england meaning my good friend and my good buddy while you're saying is yes I am my good friend well you're gonna say Dida is me Oh at the count of three one two three. Last. Part of the phrases and long may your big Gipp draw you, see the jib is the for sale in the schooners so as long as it's drawing when you're doing good is to wish for good luck what you're saying is yes I'm gonna friend wish good luck you're gonna see these male along mayor big jib draw got it I'm gonna say it you're gonna say it we're gonna get through it in three simple segments okay I say it then use it say, deed is. Me. Oh. And. Long, may your big jib draw I. Now. Declare you all honorary, no, fan Landers yes I. Have. Certificates, for, you welcome. To the black girls LV Laura wicked, you rock, well. Shall we you seem pretty under when you're kissing that codfish how is your screech in I think yeah that's gonna be the best kiss I'm ever going to get and everyone. Was super super friendly, and that was really fun what do you think oh it, was great I'm glad to be officially a Newfoundlander, let me see if I can get this right Dida, is me. Old and long may your Big Jim draw. You. Can't be an honorary Newfoundlander. And not go out on the water so we head to Babel's Harbor for our next adventure, I'm. Standing in front of the beautiful Atlantic Ocean, at O'Brien's, boat tours Laura. And I are ready to head on to the to, experience, some, icebergs. Puffins. Whales, will, see it's, absolutely gorgeous, here in babbles it reminds me of a lot of fishing communities, that I've seen in Nova Scotia where I'm from and it's a perfect, day to get out on the water it's, warm it's sunny, you, can smell the ocean, Laura, Frances and I grab a spot at the bow on the top deck, of the boat it's, the perfect place to experience, my first boat ride on the Atlantic, Ocean welcome. To our deal antique puffle and welcome to Bay balloons Newfoundland, my name is Khan spell, CE o and I am. Your tour guide for today it turns out Cano Brian is a member of the award-winning folk group the Irish descendants, and as we head out of the harbour he gets everyone singing keep. Your partner Sonny turbo hid behind, the Sally brown folder 20-game, Hortons however rolled around the circle, after. The song we run into some ways just. As Laura gets her camera out. Could. Be like a good outward cover its try to be seen. While. Laura and I are struggling. To stay upright, Francis decides to take a nap, thankfully. Things calm down the further out we get well, we're going to a marvelous, place if, you like nature we're gonna take you to a spectacular place. We're, headed off to a place that's, called the witless way ecological. Reserve the, reserve contains. Four islands, it's home to millions of seabirds including, the largest colony of puffins, in North America, the. Atlantic, puffin is the provincial bird their, small about, six to eight inches and they, fly fast, and low I see. Once. The boat slows down I'm able, to take some video of the thousands. Of birds nesting, in the cliffs and filling, the skies around us. Sadly. We, don't run across any, icebergs or, whales just. Lots. And lots. Of birds. Final, song from Conn brings, us back into Harbor. The. Motor was a lot of fun I'm all bundled up in my winter hat and gloves because, I got a little cold out at sea but we were bouncing, around and, the waves were splashing I, got to see some birds and I, certainly hear them it was a great time I would definitely definitely, love to come back and do this again, so.
We Just got back to shore feels so good slightly. Nauseous. One thing I did learn and, experience, is that my hair and wind, sometimes. Don't go so, well together so it's a little bit messy now it, was so much fun though I had blast, with the waves just feels good to be on the water didn't, really get to experience much, wildlife, but that's part of the blind problem, and Frances. Picked, but there, was another situation where she just was amazing. Back. In st. John's I decide I need to take a rest and recover. So, I skip the afternoon, activities, alors and I had planned. While. Shelby takes a break I head out on my own to st. Mary's Bay where I meet up with traditional singer, Matthew Bird hey. Matthew, it's great to meet you nice to meet you too come on in awesome, I absolutely. Love, Matthews, music I'm, a bit of a musician myself and, I'm really looking forward to sitting down with him and having a chat and having, a play some tunes for me. From, the bark in her, eye. When, roaming. Gone she. Stepped. Into, a, pub. Where, I love. Times. Before. And. As. I sad, to, camp enjoy. Miles. Who. Should chance to. Body. On. The. Bark in the harbor is a, song I recorded on my first CD I learned it from my father and. It's a British broadside, ballads that would, have made its way to. To. Newfoundland, I don't. Know probably, a couple hundred years ago. To. Some, some. Spot, where. No fee. See. My, love of tradition music, all comes down to the the, language, and the storytelling combined, with the beautiful melodies you know and I'm. A sucker for stories you, know I love. Stories and I think people everywhere love stories. She's. Best, Punk, enjoy. Me an, arrangement, scarce. 19. And. The, name of that, standard. I, think was. Out, of fine summers. Movie gosh, if, she, did say. It's down by the seashore. Lovely. Irene. She. Weaving. Her. Pocket-handkerchief. Might. Be. Don't. You leave me jolly. Santa. I'm, the person who kind of reimagines. And reinterprets, traditional music that I I, comes. To me in kind of two ways having. Grown up in a in a singing family, and. A family of traditional. Singers and song finders I've I've inherited a, lot of traditional songs and, I've and, I've, kind of delved into the kind of the family repertoire, I'm, always finding new songs you know especially. From you know my mother and my grandparents, growing, up that way it also kind of fills you with a thirst. For for. Going out and finding songs, as well you know and so I'm always on the lookout for new old songs you know. I'll. Bid, you farewell. Fine. Son. Love. Don't, forget. Me when crossing. I. Loved, interpreting. Those songs and kind of reversion, them, in such a way where I can kind of keep what's beautiful, about them, originally. And what made them a great, song in the first place but also try and do something to them either, with my style or with my guitar playing or with my arrangement, that will help them fall on new years. Just. Think. Traditional. Music in Newfoundland I think has historically. Been a really really important. Part of our identity you know and I think it's, been it's been a way for going. Back many many years it's been a way for for people in Newfoundland to kind of understand, who they are and where they come from because so much of that is contained within the music, it's. It's. A way for us to understand ourselves and I think the reason I say that is because that's been the case for me I've understood so much about my own family and I've. Learned so much about my own kind of ancestors, and people, and further back in my family lineage who I never got a chance to know through, the songs that came from them and so that strengthens, my sense of who I am in my sense of place. Before. I leave, Matthew agrees to play me one more song the, river driver. I was. Of age. Of. 18. I. Went. After. Six. Months, I'd, labor. Back. Home, I'd. I. Couldn't. It, was. Cause. Me. Driver. I'm. Fun. I'm. Hungry. I. Am dream. I'll. Get drunk, whenever, I'm. Ready. And. Get, so. And. If. This, river, don't, drown. I. I'm. From. You. I'll, do, my. Castle. Some. Where, she. Can, say, time, you. As, I. Where. She, can, sit, and, you me. Why. For. I'm. Far. And. I'm. Feeble. My. Sickness. You, can knock, me, up, in a blanket. And. Bring. To. Me. See. For. Drive. I'm. I'll. Get drunk, whether. I'm. Ready. And. Get so. And. If. This, river, don't, try, me. That's. All. I'm. Back. In st. John's Shelby, is feeling rested and joins, me for a cooking lesson at bacala restaurant, with owner Andrea, Mound ER Andra, we're back here in the nice cozy, kitchen at bacalao restaurant, and i know i'm really excited to try some new plant, food yeah, I'm super excited too so what.
Are You going to be cooking for us today so, we're doing two really, traditional things, we're doing what, we call back allow fritters so we've been making those since we open the restaurant 11 years ago so, it's essentially a fancy, fish cake which is a really traditional Newfoundland. Thing and then the next dish is going to be cod tongues so. It's really you. Know I guess, it was animal you'd call it nose to tail eating and this place it's um mouth, to gills I suppose. I'm. Excited to try the cod tongues I'm a little more of an adventurous, eater and I've never had them before don't. Know about Shelby yeah I'll probably be taking a back seat for that and letting, Francis, step, in for me we're, talking about cod in Newfoundland when we say you're going home to a fish supper we, mean cod in Raceland, fish means cottage exactly, edition ships it's hot. Yeah unless if you go if you're gonna have salmon or halibut or anything else at home then you'd say that specifically, say fish we mean gosh all right well that's gonna start it so, we're gonna start with the bacala fritters so what I have here. Ready to go because, I have my whole pan, here so I've got some, salt fish that I've already poached off so just simply poached off with your peppercorns, a little bait leaves just to add a little something interesting, in the background the potato I just boiled in the skin so, that way it didn't pick up too much moisture content, and mash dish I have, some lemon zest here, in the bowl such as the zest of the lemon I have, some, garlic chopped up a little lemon juice and I have the Newfoundland savory, and so the onion is the other ingredient, and I'm just gonna turn, on my. And, here there we go got my fire and I started the onion a little. Bit earlier, just to sweat it down in starka process. There we go and the. Great thing about savory. Is that anything that's got butter, a little bit of fat is gonna pick up the flavor of a savory so much better.
Exactly. And distributes, it so I'm gonna add that in and you'll I'm just squeezing. It between my fingers a little bit and I'm gonna add a little kosher salt in. There and, I'm gonna put that right in the fat because I'm gonna incorporate that all into, the potato in the fish anyhow I'm, gonna add a little bit of garlic never. Too much garlic. And. Then I'm gonna add in my lemon zest and again. The oils in that are really gonna get picked up with the oil in. The pan the fat in the pan I'm not going for color on the, onions, I really just want them to sweat, down and soften I don't want them to be brand right I'm gonna transfer that to my bowl here. Scrape. Out all that delicious, goodness I'm, gonna add a little freshly cracked pepper. Flavor. I'm, gonna crumble, in the fish I want. To break it up so that, it blends nicely but, I don't need it to be completely, mushy, now so all I would do is, form, it so it's sort of like a football shape okay yeah and so, about well, big as the palm of my hand I don't have real big hands but, a little little smaller than an egg probably, and then. I would roll that in panko and fry it now we'll go on to the next dish the cod tongue so. I have them here and there's a few varying sizes I mean I've seen some that, are the size of a small plate the, most, people prefer the smaller ones because they are just tastier and crispier, the older ones they get like chewy they can be yeah they take a little longer to cook they look just like tongs and, they're actually they're like they're a little bit bigger than I thought these are quite small like a good like two inches they are and then the littlest ones are maybe an inch or so interests are square, simplest. Preparation, for these is best to just salt pepper and flour, but the tongues speak for itself. Exactly. And, then. They're traditionally, served with scrunches, which, is fried. Salted, pork fat. And so they start off looking. Sort of white and. Fatty. And. They're probably double the size or maybe triple and then when they're fried down they get very crisp so you're welcome to taste one okay basically. Kind of like B yeah, yeah. They're just sort of salty and crispy they're, really looks good yeah it's a Newfoundland health food right. For. People that eat cod tongue like would it just be mostly in restaurants or if people eat them at home all people eat them at home for sure yeah, for little kids on the wharf that, would be their job as. The fish get landed to take them and cut out the tongues after, our cooking lesson we all move to the back allowed dining room for a tasting, so. Get the chance to eat now so, we'll start with the salt cod fritters I'll just move those in so we were serving those with an aioli and this is a malt vinegar aioli, and Newfoundlanders. Love malt vinegar with chips and kind of things so it's kind of the best of both worlds there so, go ahead and take one of each and, add mini aioli. To that probably yeah two inches big that's what yours yeah almost, like a falafel or no yeah and, it almost has the falafel, eat texture on the outside because of the panko so, you're getting that golden brown would you say this is a finger food or should I use my fork use your fingers you can just go ahead and punch away three two one I can. Hear the crunch so that's a good thing. So. You taste a little bit of citrus a, little, bit of garlic in there the onions and, you know aioli is really, really nice with that well you want that brightness with anything deep fried I find you do want that acidity salt, at the con I'm gonna say this little extra bit for freedom so. The other thing we have is the cod tongue all. Right yeah. So I'm gonna choose a smaller, one for each of you so, you've never had them before it's nice to go smaller, and, I just finished those with a little bit of salt. Pepper you're welcome to the scrunch and although you both did try them yeah it's, cute Pringles yeah yeah, oh yes yeah. Yeah you really enjoyed them so you go ahead and have some more and. I'll give you a little squirt of lemon on here, Cobb lian-chu, there. You go and. Just pop it in I'm gonna go in with my fingers as well I'll. Join them a little bit more nervous you know. Yeah. I, wanted, to good okay. You want to watch me at first yeah. Hmm. I think. It's good yeah.
You. Just take the cod nugget you know how they do small. You. Know the texture is a little um I get. The gelatinous yeah there's, that little bit of difference so in a larger one you'd experience that in a little bit more of a way what did it you, did it and. It sounds like I get to finish off the rest of these colors, just fine with me yeah and we, had a great time tasting, some some local local food thank you so much in Oh Roger. Thanks for coming it was really fun. She'll, be her guide dog Frances, and I are exploring a province with some of the most dramatic coastlines. In Canada. So. Laura we're at cape speare what do you think oh it's, absolutely gorgeous. Here yeah. It's cool to be at the most eastern, part in North. America, and it turns out that I guess this is where it, all starts, the Sun rises, and the, day starts for North America, right where we are I. Can. Smell the ocean air, I can hear the waves and the foghorns, you know it's a little bit foggy here which isn't unusual for, Newfoundland. And Labrador but. It's also nice and warm and I'm. Excited to get out and explore the trails a little bit what do you think yeah let's go do it. You. Could spend hours here walking, the boardwalks, and trails and along. The way there are plenty of areas to pause and take in the sounds of the roaring, ocean. Picture-taking. Opportunities. Are everywhere. Cape. Speare is also, home to an iconic lighthouse which is a National Historic Site and the oldest, lighthouse in the province. We'd. Like to stay longer but we need to head back to the city for a newfoundland language, lesson. We. Travel to Memorial, University to, chat with retired, folklore, professor, dr., Philip his. Hello. Hi I'm. Philip I'm Laura nice to meet you I'm Shelby, with my guide dog Frances, oh nice to meet you too. What, do you call the language from here. Well. The, main language that people speak around here is English, thanks for the mainland the. Version. Of it the variation. That we see here from standard, English is, usually, called by academics, Newfoundland, English. Or Newfoundland Labrador English locally, a lot of people call it new Fannie's or new Finny's and, that term new Phinney's is really. About 20 years old would, you say that this is almost something that people have pride. In that if they speak, like this because they're proud to be from Newfoundland, and it's its own culture, similar, to québécois yeah. Very much so I'm in my mid 60's now and, people, who are half my age are. People who. Are. Using Newfoundland. Intonations. Accents. And. Dialects. Over. And over again. Regularly. And they use it in joking. Ways so. It's, often you. Talk seriously, in, your version of standard English but. You talk. Jokingly, or intimately, or or. Celebrity. Or, drunkenly. In the, your. Version of the local accent, yeah so yes there's definite pride there's definite joy in if there's a joy in that. Playing. With language so. Like, there's gonna be differences all across Canada in the way that people speak in different words but, Newfoundland, is really known for being, yeah. Like. Sort of an outlier like really just having a lot of its own words and phrases, and things like that why, is it so different from the rest of Canada or even even, the Maritimes. It's. True that Newfoundland, has some, really, good dictionaries, that the, big. Yellow one that I've got here in front of me the dictionary in English is really the the best, of the lot, it's the scholarly one but there are there. Are two or three or four other ones around the academic, attention to local language in other provinces I don't think is quite as extensive as, it has been here Newfoundland. Is a huge place you've been in Labrador, do, you see a lot of differences, in the language and the words that are used across, the province yeah, and, in fact that's really one of the biggest, things. That anyone, who studies, Newfoundland. Language notices. Right away if. You only, come to Newfoundland, and hang, out in st. John's or 50 miles from st. John's you, will hear a huge, amount of Irish, inflected, speech, if.
You, Go a little more than 50 miles suddenly poop the bottom drops out of that Irishness and. For. The most part you'll hear what's what's really - West Country English speech, those, two groups of people, represent. The the main, European. Settlement, groups in Newfoundland, in the past. Of. Mine last night and I said where do you live he said I live in killbride and I said what is it with you New Zealanders and your place. Name's George, story whose book, actually I've got here right in front of me wrote this great article. Called the, view from the sea it's. All about Newfoundland, place names and he points out that most new fin I place names were set in place by the. The Mariners, the people who were coasting, along trying, to find places to stop and the place names were, very much reflective. Of what you saw from, the sea so something like redhead, Cove, it's, the cove in behind the the big hill it's red you know the Red Rock or, black head the same sort of thing or, they were connected to stories, that people told about someone, who had died there you remember that place where buddy died you know that dead. Man's Cove or whatever a place like dildo is really, quite interesting and it's a you know big joke by visitors, who come and they want to that's. Right exactly so where does that come from we, don't know what it comes from there have been six, or eight different. Understandings. Of it the very best one and this, is the one I believe to be true is that. It's. Actually an early form of the word doldrum, now. If you were sailing along, and you, have to pay attention to the wind in in a sailboat if something, is a dull drum that's a dangerous place to get into and, it's, between an island and the coast there and that's that's, the doldrums, so dildo, likely, was, named for the lack of wind on the water out. There between what's now dildo island and the town of dildo what is the correct term to call someone, that lives in Newfoundland. Most. Of your viewers listeners. Will. Know the term Newfie, yeah new fees been around for a long time I've. Tracked it back to, 1937. But. New fee in the, 21st, century has. A really bad reputation among, lots of people it's, fighting, words for some people you'd call, that person a new fee they consider, it an insult, because, they see it as a diminutive, okay, you Philander is a real adult thing to be new, fee is like a teddy. Bear or something, you know a toy. Or, so, they really resent that yeah I know growing up there's always a lot of like new fee jokes and they were usually revolve around someone being stupid yeah that's right some people are they, really like, the, term you fee some new finders really like being called and be known as in calling themselves a new fee and, that's, because they see it as a very positive thing, it. Represents their, home it represents, family, represents, community, to represents, simplicity. Connectedness, to the nature whole, lot of things that are built into that term. Ability. To sing and dance and to, drink someone under the table all. Those things you know and these are seen as as good, and positive things, so. It's, very difficult to know just meeting someone whether they're gonna like Newfie, or they're gonna punch you in the nose for saying it so. It's a it's a good word to avoid, yeah. Newfoundlander. Is the, word it's the words if anyone's coming to, Newfoundland, try. And stay away from Newfie, yes and later that's your safe bet that's right now if your if your your. Hosts. Are calling, themselves Newfie, then you, know you're gonna say, to that word I've, always loved listening to Newfoundlanders speak the language, here is just a lot like the people it's really warm. And friendly and yeah. I love, the language here and I love learning about it because it's you know it's really interesting to me there's some expressions. That you. Think you know would be familiar because I'm not from far away I'm from Nova Scotia but, you.
Know There's a lot of things that I have to say sorry what does that mean so I find. It really interesting. After. Our conversation with dr. Hitchcock it's, only fitting, that our next adventure is in a place with a quirky Newfoundland, sounding name Kitty, vide Kitty. Video is, a working, fishing village within the city of st. John's it sits, on the edge of the ocean dominated. By cliffs and a harbour known as the gut we. Walk the whole village, in about 10 minutes and end up at the Kitty vidi-vidi, ssin. The. Plantation, houses a handful. Of local, artists studios the, studios are open so, you can watch the artists as they work we. Meet up with textile, artist to carry Ivany, hi, Carrie hi I'm, Laura. Yeah. It's, okay tell us about the artwork that you make so, I am a textile, artist, I, focus, a lot and embellishing. Materials, by. Techniques, of hand dyed materials, and also freehand machine embroidery embellishment. Freehan, machine embroidery is like drawing with a sewing machine carry. Sewing machine is set up so she can move the fabric and sew in any direction like. This math of newfoundland which she sews up on the spot so, these two are patches. This. One here is the Newfoundland, flag. It's, the Republican, Newfoundland color so it's green white and pink it's. Also got the free hand machine embroidery of the outline of the island, of Newfoundland this. One here is a Newfoundland, dog, look. I know that I, mean, I love the Newfoundland dogs and I know that she'll be is very partial tank but I'm, more partial to the Labrador, dogs actually. Kerry, also shows, us some of her embellished, clutch purses, made from hand dyed wool felt so. This one there has an owl on it and this one here has an eagle and blueberries, with a couple little leaves and can you tell us about this place that we're at the plantation, yes so we're here at the beautiful plantation. This. Is a space dedicated for, emerging craftspeople, so, we can rent the space for about five years with. The goal of at the end establishing, a full-time business here in Newfoundland we.
Get. To do make stuff directly from our studio but also sell it awesome, well thank you so much for showing us this beautiful work that you do and I think Shelby and I and Frances are gonna go explore some of the other artists, artists. Yes play out there after, touring, around some, of the artists studios which, feature everything, from pottery, to t-shirts Laura, and I are ready, to take a break. Luckily. Kitty, viddy has just, the spot. The. Largest craft brewer in the province is the kitty videoing. Company we meet up with one of the owners, Justin Fong so. Welcome to the Katti batti brewery Tap Room we're in what used to be a fish plant so, my family started this in 1995. And I understand you've got to be R that we're gonna try one that you're famous for yeah, so this will be our number one beer and our most famous one which would be iceberg lager it's, never too early for a beer awesome, let's do it so. I'm gonna crack a bottle of iceberg, beer here and pour up a few samples for you guys. Show. Me. Laura. Beautiful. So. What can we expect from a beer like this so. The, difference between iceberg, the real that thing that makes it stand out is it's made from pure iceberg water so you've got to imagine most breweries and most beers are made with just regular tap water iceberg. Water was, frozen anywhere, from 10,000. To 50,000, years ago so this predates, like, man and pollution, and all that type of stuff so it's not what the water tastes like it's what it doesn't taste like it's super, clean and crisp and then no aftertaste it's just gone so this is going to be a really, light refreshing, summertime, patio lager I'm getting thirsty cheers, guys. What. Do you guys think definitely, tastes that lightness, the refreshing can see how this would be dangerous to drink is definitely it can get dangerous, yeah perfect on a summer day so. I've got one question which is how do they get the water from the icebergs, into the beer so there's, a couple different ways to do it we've got a guy with a massive barge that goes out and harvests, all the iceberg water for, basically Newfoundland so we can fit about a million, litres of water on it at a time it's a massive boat it goes out and there's two ways to do it one is with the massive crane so do you remember that game when, your it was like in arcades, and it was like the claw that comes down and Rita will picture a thing like that that could actually pick, something up and not have it fall out of the claws hands but, it's basically a giant iceberg cloth so it goes over picks up icebergs, that bring them on board the boats and then they melt down.
It's, Like probably about an inch or two on the outside layer the iceberg to make sure it's pure iceberg water and then, the, rest of it is melted down and we get it when it kind of finally comes to us it's actually melted down as water wow that sounds like a very rugged kind of job it, is but, it's a delicious beer and thanks, so much for giving us a taste Justin you're welcome thanks so much for coming down. Wait. Before. Laura and I get to our next Newfoundland, adventure I decide. To give Frances one, a. Swim. In the harbor and a game of fetch good. Girl. Awesome. Work. For. A last excursion, in Kitty vide we meet up on a breathtakingly. Beautiful cliff, overlooking, the ocean with lori mccarthy and her assistant, ali Blagdon, hey. Laurence Lori arias oh hi nice to meet you. Ali. Lori. Runs a culinary, excursion, company called Cod sounds, that focuses, on nature, based programs, related, to foraging, and the, food culture of Newfoundland, which, explains, Lori's and Ally's clever t-shirt slogans, I'd, rather be picking weeds I always, say to people welcome, to the end of the earth. This, is such a spectacular area. Of the province, we're like right on the edge of the cliffs here the sea birds nests all along these shores. They. This is the North Atlantic Ocean and we're just around the corner from st., John's Harbor so we're gonna head up this little trail here I'm gonna take you up and we're gonna show, you some of the wild edibles that we've incorporated into, the cuisines, and in flash all, right guys we'll come on up this way I'm just gonna show you one of the flowers that are in bloom now and. This. Is one of my favorite ones it comes out nice and early in the season and, it's. Blueberry. Flowers that's, gonna make, blueberries, right it will make blueberries so I'm always, conscious. When you're picking and never pick more than 1/3 of a plane so if you want to hold out your hand, and. Give. You a couple of blueberry flowers, and, you can squish them up and get a scent from them and just have a taste and they truly taste like the, skinny little blueberry mm-hmm. Like, the wild blueberries are do feel and are incredible, they are like, sought over you, know there it like in the Nova Scotia blueberry. - you know and. It's, one of the it's a long-standing tradition. In in. Our province to very, pick in the fall of the earth they're just the tiniest whitest little flower and if we had any idea that you could eat them as they're like, I guess they're blossoms, they are the blossoms yeah and then the, pastry.
Chefs Here use them so we'll head around the around the corner here and I'll show you have a couple yeah so here's the gin berries. So. They go from being a, and, cloudy, so you can feel this way I feel. This, one so. They go from being cloudy, and heard the. Green so that's their first year and their, second, year, I'll give you they turn blue, so and here's a blue one and the second year they turn blue and, then. Just, squish them and give that one a sniff. Smells. Like it needs a lime so. I'll make like again salts and stuff with those and they're really good on wild game I'll dry them and crush them up into a mortar and pestle yeah and then we'll use them and all kinds, of all. Kinds of cookin excellent on red meat. Here. We go guys well we'll, head on out the trail. Frances, toe, big. Winds off the water cancel. Laurie's beach fire cooking, plans for us get. Three beers please. But. Her plan B is all right with Ally Laura and I hey, guys. Go. So, this is a local India, beer you, have an India series. Guys. That's. Exactly, what we need on a sunny day so we're in the beer garden at Mallard cottage in, Newfoundland we call it Savage wind on so we didn't get to light a fire so, I got your next best thing, Mallard. Cottage is known for wicked, local cuisine and, incorporating, all the local goodies so we've got some carrots here and hummus and we've, got some fish tacos so we'll. Eat up and we'll chill out smells, great sounds, good and. Awesome to have you guys out today I had, like one question, I wanted to ask you because I mean, obviously. You, know there's, all this type of foliage. And, natural. Resources, that are out there that can really complement. Things but. I feel like not a lot of people know why. They. Should care about it can you speak from someone that like has your experience why should everyone, care, about, this same thing if to me it brings it all back to the land yeah and when, you grow up here, and grow, up in our family like I did you're it's a it truly teaches the sense of respect to the land for sure and from my generation my grandparents, generation you. Learn that from. Living, off the land and eating, from it and giving back to it and, for us and for me that's why I do what I do yeah, I think we really got to experience, yeah. Absolutely I. Don't. Know where name khat sounds comes from what does that mean, cod. Sounds is actually a part of the fish there Adele it's, a membrane it's a piece of skin it's, like a air, bladder up in the fish and they they use it like a like a lung, and they. Hope it's produced, for buoyancy so my, grandfather's, time they used to keep the salted sounds, they would salt them and then. They would you'd eat them all year round it was the delicacy, here yeah well thanks a lot Lori thanks a lot Ally we had a great time yeah, this was awesome dig, into some food. While, our time in this beautiful province, is coming to a close but we're standing on a dock it's a gray foggy evening and, we can hear a kitchen party behind us which is very appropriate I don't, know what you shall be but I had an absolutely. Amazing, time here and. I think some of the highlights for me were the music, and the people what, about you you know Laura just, meeting you being that you, know am i female, power team between you and me and Francis I think that's got to be one of my favorites, but. Close, second, I definitely, loved the boat tour I acted like a total dork. On it but just riding, those waves. Riding the boat being on the Atlantic, Ocean that was something I really wanted to experience see. The differences between the Pacific and the Atlantic but. I mean did, make us little nauseous, well. I had a great time working with you too and Francis, and you know what I hear is good for nausea what's the screech, oh well, we're, in the right place let's go get a drink all right. Hosts. Laura Bain she'll be Travers producer, Wendy Purvis videographers. Andrew pickup Darcy - Toni editors Andrew pickup Miriam Bakhtiar integrated, described video specialists wrong record production supervisor, janice of Attili senior, producer, jennifer johnson, director production care and i director, programming, ami TV brian Perdue vice president programming, and production John, Melville president, and CEO David, Arrington, copyright, 2018, accessible, Media Inc.